When you think of the iconic Potala Palace in Lhasa, you likely picture its striking red-and-white walls rising boldly against the sky. Rumor has it that these walls are painted with a mixture of milk and sugar, giving the palace a unique "sweet" allure. Intrigued by this legend, I couldn't resist joining the annual repainting event to see for myself.
As the sun was still rising, a line of eager locals and curious tourists had already gathered outside the west gate of this UNESCO World Heritage site in southwest China's Xizang Autonomous Region. Many carried cartons of milk and bags of sugar, piquing my curiosity even further. What was the secret behind this sweet tradition?
As we entered the paint-mixing area, I saw people handing over their ingredients to the staff. Soon, each of us was given a bucket of the mixture. Feeling adventurous, I dipped a finger into it to see if it tasted sweet, but a staff member named Tashi quickly stopped me with a laugh. "There's lime in the paint. Don't taste it!" he warned.
He explained that the paint is made from a blend of milk, honey, sugar, saffron and lime. These ingredients create the signature white, red and yellow hues of the palace and give the paint a sticky quality that helps it adhere to the ancient walls, providing much-needed protection.
The process of painting is a fascinating blend of tradition and craftsmanship, a testament to how this ritual has evolved over centuries to preserve the Potala Palace's splendor. Volunteers, including both locals and tourists, were invited to assist by providing ingredients and carrying the mixture up the many steps of the palace, where dozens of skilled workers from the palace administration waited to apply the paint to the walls.
The climb was grueling. The palace sits over 3,600 meters above sea level, so every step felt like a real accomplishment. I had to stop several times to catch my breath, but each pause offered an opportunity to connect with fellow volunteers.
I struck up a conversation with Jigme Ngodrup, a 23-year-old student from Lhasa, who was here with his friends. "Look at all the grandpas and grandmas here," he said with a smile. "This is such an important part of our culture. We young people need to do our part too."
It was heart-warming to see people of all generations working together, all united by a common purpose. Even tourists like me were invited to pitch in. While resting, I met Hanne, a tourist from Switzerland, who was experiencing Xizang for the first time.
"I feel so lucky to witness this tradition," she said, her eyes wide with awe. It was clear that she, too, was moved by the sight of so many people working in harmony to preserve something so sacred.
The start date of the annual repainting event is somewhat flexible, falling on Oct. 28 this year. However, the process must be completed by the 22nd day of the ninth month of the Tibetan calendar, which this year falls on Nov. 22 -- a significant date marking Lhabab Duchen, the day when Buddha is believed to have descended from the heaven. As part of the preparations, people clean temples and their homes in hopes of a blessed and peaceful year.
This year's repainting holds special significance. It marks the 30th anniversary of the Potala Palace's recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Tashi shared with me that in the past, the palace used to hire workers for this massive task. Now, there are so many volunteers that they can barely keep track of everyone eager to lend a hand. More and more people have come to understand the immense value of preserving this cultural treasure that connects generations past, present and future.
The Potala Palace, first built in the 7th century, is a beacon of Tibetan history, culture and art. It houses nearly 40,000 collections of ancient books and documents in multiple languages. Among the most significant collections are scriptures written on around 30,000 pattra leaves.
Over the years, China has made substantial investments in restoring the palace, including several large-scale repair projects, to preserve its murals and architectural wonders.
The preservation of the Potala Palace is part of Xizang's broader efforts to safeguard its rich cultural heritage. In fact, the region is home to 2,373 protected cultural heritage sites, underscoring its commitment to preserving the essence of its history.
It was noon when I left the palace. I turned back for one last look. I could see people suspended along the palace walls, repainting them like spider-men scaling the heights. Against the blue sky and wispy clouds, the palace looked radiant, almost otherworldly. I felt incredibly lucky to be part of this tradition, even if just for a day.
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