As her classmates headed home for family reunions after end of term exams, Yang Jin was flying to Beijing to attend a news conference arranged by her agent.

Miss China 2004, the 20-year-old sophomore was among 15 finalists at last year's Miss World contest held on South China's Hainan Island.

A student of accounting at Zhongnan University of Economics and Law in Wuhan, Hubei Province and student beauty contest winner, Yang is not alone.

Several months ago, Qiao Jing, a first year undergraduate at the Communications University of China in Beijing was a runner-up in the 2004 Miss Universe contest held in China.

Of the 50 finalists in the contest held in Kunming, Yunnan, 85 per cent were college students.

In the regional contest in Guangzhou, three quarters of the contestants were college students from within the province or Hong Kong, Macao and Singapore.

And winners of the Guangzhou and Zhuhai regional pageants were both students.

The reality today is that Chinese college students are playing an inordinately key role in such events.

"At least 50 per cent of contestants are still in full-time education and that is a conservative estimate," said Gao Jie, project manager of Beautiful World Lit, a Hong Kong-based company in charge of the Miss World Contest in China.

In order to take part in the 2004 Miss World contest and many linked activities, Yang has been absent from university for most of the semester -- from September to mid- December.

And when she finally returned to classes, end of term exams were approaching. Although grabbing every minute possible and reading late into the night, Yang still had to postpone her accounting exam -- her most important course -- until next semester.

As a beauty contest usually lasts two to four months and involves business engagements, participants have to devote much time and energy to it.

But in some quarters the correctness and wisdom of mixing university education with the frippery of beauty contests, albeit international ones, is being questioned.

In particular in a country where the privilege of tertiary education still remains an unrealizable dream for many.

While participants may enjoy the experience they get from the contests, academics have their reservations and qualms.

"As a social phenomenon, beauty contests are motivated by many business interests. By setting the competition standard as beauty, charm and wisdom, the contests look more reasonable and attractive," said Chen Rudong, professor of ethics at the School of Journalism and Communication at Peking University.

Beauty contests show the tolerance of our society and people's freedom to choose different values. It is a combination of beauty and interest and it also reflects people's eagerness for instant success and quick profits, argues Chen.

Many scholars think student participation in such events is the result of changes in the education system and its values. On the other hand, it shows the impetuousness of our education. Student beauty queens can attract attention for their school.

"But it's contrary to the nature of university education," said Prof Chen.

University education is about building a strong knowledge base and developing healthy personalities. A sound and systematic university education is invaluable and irreplaceable and taking time out of academic study to participate in beauty contests runs contrary to the ethos of university excellence.

His sentiments were echoed by one of Yang's tutors who pointed out that the chance of becoming Miss China is remote. And the reality of life, particularly the lives of students is that 99.9 per cent of them will only realize their potential through hard work.

All participants are obliged to sign a contract with an agency. And when one gets on their name list, they must attend many activities and commercial meetings, said Qiao.

In an interview with CCTV (China Central Television), Qiao's agent said the company spent about 3 million yuan (US$362,700) on her "packaging and marketing," and hopes she will win the money back, plus a tidy profit.

"I hope Qiao wins 30 million or even 300 million for us," her agent told CCTV.

"I'm happy Yang Jin became Miss China and played on the world stage. I support her in showing herself in a different field," said Zhou Wei, her teacher.

"She got special approval from our school for her three months-plus leave of absence," Zhou added.

The Lanyue Model Club set up by Yang's college to encourage girls to improve their appearance and bearing, also provided invaluable advice and training.

"There is a lot of discrimination against girls in the job market and it's hard for them to find a job," said Zhou. Improved appearance and confidence will boost their eventual job prospects.

The School of Accounting of Zhongnan University of Economics and Law is one of the best in the country. But 90 per cent of job vacancies are for male graduates, while 70 per cent of its students are female. This means increased pressure.

"The school can do nothing about it and has to adapt to this trend," said Zhou.

A number of clubs giving tips on make-up and image dressing have also been set up by the school.

Zhou said the school encourages its female students to develop in different fields and find their own route to success.

"I'm happy if our graduates become professional accountants. And I'm also happy if they become Miss World or Miss Universe."

During the early part of last year's summer holiday, Yang, a freshman at that time, took part in a preliminary heat of the Miss World contest in Chongqing at her mother's suggestion.

The contest organizing committee offers free training for all participants and this appealed to both mother and daughter who both thought Yang a little introverted. They hoped entering the contest would boost her confidence and make her more outgoing.

"I wanted to send my daughter out of the ivory tower to breath some fresh air. I trust her and I think she will have a suitable attitude for the contest," said her mother Jin Yan.

Even the contest and the subsequent activities took her almost the whole semester and she had to do her accounting studies during the winter holiday and prepare for the postponed test.

"You have many chances to get an education, but only one chance to enter Miss World," she said.

To try another kind of life, make new friends and broaden their horizons are the motivation for many girls.

"I had unforgettable days during the contest and memory will last a lifetime," said Qiao, now a senior student majoring in compering.

Her success in the contest aroused the admiration of some of her classmates.

"My roommates said I became more charming and confident after the contest," she remarked.

Others regarded the contests as a more calculating way to gain an advantage in the job stakes.

"They are just trying to sharpen their edge in their way. I do not envy them and I think everyone has his or her own route. It's nothing unusual for beautiful girls to take part in beauty contests and we ordinary-looking persons have our way to show ourselves," said Wang Nan, a senior at the Communication School of China.

Besides gaining special experience, contest winners benefit financially.

Qiao Jing gained by about 700,000 yuan (US$85,000) including the crown, home electrical appliances, car and other products offered by the sponsors.

Participants pay a mere 100 yuan (US$12) registration fee for the Miss Universe contest, but can get free training, air tickets, hotel accommodation and even sightseeing tours.

Almost all beauty contests are operated by specialist agencies and sponsored by companies, according to an insider.

This is the so-called "Beauty Economy." The beautiful is a great draw and great profits are to be had.

The biggest gainers are the media, agents and sponsors.

Broadcasting a beauty contest can greatly boost a TV station's audience rating, bring commercial benefits for sponsors and be a boon to the tourist industry of the host region.

The 2003 Miss Universe contest attracted audiences of more than 600 million in 167 countries around the world and the Panamanian government and sponsors profited to the tune of US$30 million.

London gained US$1.2 billion for holding the 52nd Miss World Contest.

And the beauty economy continues to hot up.

Since 2003 when the 53rd Miss World Contest was held in Sanya, people have become more and more open to them and their numbers have been rising.

In addition to international pagaents like Miss World, Miss Universe and Miss International, there are many others.

"There are more than 300 beauty or modelling contests running in the country now. The market is mixed," she added.

Many participants, says Qiao, are talked into signing a kind of five-year "exclusive" contract by agents giving them the right to arrange their activities.

She claims, however, that "of the 50 finalists only four did not (sign such contracts). You do not know what is going to happen in the future and five years is a long time."

Beauty sector contributes to Chinese economy

With a white mask covering her face, Wang Xinli closes her eyes. Lying on a soft bed, the 26-year-old enjoys a massage and the fragrance the facemask brings.

Within minutes, she falls asleep. One hour later, Wang gets off the bed and finds a refreshed girl in the mirror. "Very comfortable!" she says while paying 300 yuan (US$35) for the service.

This is only part of Wang's routine investment in body treatments. Each month, the young financial advisor from Huaxia Bank in Beijing spends more than 2,000 yuan (US$240), roughly half of her monthly salary, to beautify her skin, hair, hands and feet, as well as buying brand-name cosmetics and perfume like Chanel, Lancome or Christian Dior.

"It enhances my confidence and it's worthwhile," she claims.

"She is not an exception," said Zhang Qian, a personal image advisor in Beijing, claiming that a young generation of Chinese, born around 1978 when the country began its reform and opening-up, are better-educated, better-paid, and pay greater attention to fashion and their personal image than their parents.

"Nowadays, professionals like Wang not only compete in their professional skills, but also in their personal image because it could directly affect the first impression of future customers," he said.

While the traditional beauty sector in China refers mainly to such services as hairdressing, massage and face-lifts by medical means, the modern beauty sector expands to cover the areas of beauty-related education and marketing, the production and research of cosmetics and related instruments, and even includes ornaments, packaging materials as well personal image consultation.

Within 21 years, from 1983 to 2004, the sales volume of China's beauty businesses has increased 260 times, according to the country's first annual report on the beauty sector, recently released by four young Chinese economists He Fan, Ba Shusong, Zhong Wei and Zhao Xiao.

With a 15 per cent annual growth, the beauty sector is turning into another huge money-maker after the boom in the real estate, auto, electronics and tourism sectors. Moreover, the revenue of the sector is expected to reach 176.2 billion yuan (US$21.3 billion) this year and double in the next five years.

From the perspective of cosmetics, a similar track is visible: The annual average spending of Chinese on cosmetics, in the early 1980s, was about one yuan (12 US cents), the figure rose to five yuan (60 US cents) in the early 1990s, and 25 yuan (US$3) at the end of 2000.

In big cities like Beijing and Shanghai, the annual average spending on cosmetics has reached 80-100 yuan (US$9.6-12), although still much lower than the figures for many developed countries, roughly US$35-70.

China is currently home to 1.54 million beauty parlors and nearly 3,800 cosmetic companies, and almost 8 million people are actually working in beauty-related businesses, plus another 4 million whose jobs are connected to the sector.

A survey of five major cities in China: Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Chengdu and Wuhan, shows that the most popular beauty items include SPAs, stone massages, Yoga, foot massages and nail treatments.

Despite the huge advances witnessed over the past two decades, "huge gaps still exist between China's beauty sector and its counterparts in developed countries," said Zhang Xiaomei, vice-president of the Beauty and Cosmetics Association of Central China's Henan Province.

Ba Shusong, one of the four co-authors of the report, shares a similar view.

"Compared with overseas beauty and cosmetics rivals, the domestic companies lack competitive advantages and are markedly overshadowed in such aspects as management, talent and brands," he said.

"Even the beauty chains with hundreds of outlets across the country are very often unknown to ordinary consumers."

Statistics from the annual report show only 11.72 per cent of the practitioners have a two-year college or higher educational background, while the practitioners who have a junior middle-school or an even lower education, and those who have a senior middle-school or secondary technical school education account for 38 per cent and 50.2 per cent of the sector's workforce respectively.

Zhao Xiao, another co-author of the report, highlighted several other major features of China's current beauty economy: Private investment accounts for 87 per cent of the sector; small-sized beauty shops with less than 50 square metres of work space stand for 65 per cent of the total; and more than half of the beauty shops cost no more than 50,000 yuan (US$6,045) of investment.

Zhao pointed out that in spite of the two decades of rapid development, China's beauty sector has been in a kind of disorderly state, "it's of great urgency to find a brand-new industry mode suitable for the 21st century."

He was echoed by Ba Shusong who also believes it's time for big investors to step into the industry and establish brand-name beauty shops.

An interesting phenomenon is that Chinese men are attaching more and more attention on their personal image as well. Across China, beauty salons have begun providing professional services for men.

Due to the fact that many successful men maintain such bad habits as staying up all night, smoking and drinking, which lead to skin and hair problems, "men need comprehensive and professional beauty services to enhance their confidence as much as women do," said Yi Dai, who owns a Men's Beauty Salon.

She claims her routine customers mainly include white-collar workers, private entrepreneurs and celebrities of various industries.

"Male models, actors, and celebrities are the pioneers," said Guo Xiaohua, an industry researcher from Xiamen.

"Of course, male consumers expect a kind of energy, instead of beauty, from the beauty services."

Zhong Wei, one of the four co-authors of the report and director of the Finance Research Centre of Beijing Normal University, is rather optimistic about the future of China's beauty sector.

"With the development of the fine-chemical industry, bioscience, materials science as well as the application of cell science in dermatology medicines, the beauty sector is sure to make headway in both depth and scope."

Zhong predicts that in the next five to 10 years, Chinese herbal medicines may play a bigger role in the domestic beauty market if researchers can solve such problems as purification techniques and conduct more scientific analyses on the nature and quantity of the effective elements of Chinese herbal medicine.

(China Daily February 5, 2005)