Like many large eateries, Taihu Chuancai Guan is crowded with diners and full of noise during peak time.

Taihu chuancai, (Taihu Lake Boat Meals) began from the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). People could taste the freshest food while appreciating the views along the river, a different enjoyment from that in restaurants.

Until recent years, this kind of traditional and special dining was moved indoors into ordinary restaurants in the city, and only the delicate taste was maintained.

The cuisine stresses freshness and keeping the original flavour of ingredients. The cuisine uses fish, shrimp and crab from Taihu Lake. This has become an appealing attractions to Shanghainese.

Bai si yu (fish from Taihu Lake) is said to be a must-try. The fish is famous for its tender and tasty flesh. After being steamed on water with light soybean oil, spring onion and ginger, the fish is bland and delicate.

Guotie yuzi (roe on fried minced seafood) was enticing - the bottom cake was fried with chopped seafood and above it pasted thick salad sauce and layered with transparent grains of roe. The light bitterness of the roe was balanced by the creamy sauce and tasty cake.

This cuisine was special for its good arrangement of meat and vegetarian dishes and some fungus and pot herb dishes were a precious enjoyment for urbanites.

The main course we ordered was steamed buns with date paste stuffings. The buns was very soft, for some egg white had been added to the flour, so that it carried a light fishy flavour.

The restaurant provided a nice cool dessert which was made of heavy mango juice and pearl-like sago.

( Shanghai Star July 10, 2002)