A trip to Xiangxi Tujia and the Miao Autonomous Prefecture in Central China's Hunan Province is an experience filled with unexpected surprises.

Enveloped by the Wuling Mountains and Yuanshui River, this area in western Hunan has become increasingly known in the country for its beautiful natural scenery and unique folk culture.

For most tourists, the first stop is Wangcun, an ancient town about one hour's drive from the city of Jishou, capital of the prefecture.

Situated on the confluence of the Mengdong and Yuanshui rivers, the town was once the capital of local ethnic tribal kings and its history spans over 2,000 years.

In spite of the increasing number of tourists, the life of locals has hardly changed. Many villagers flock to the town from neighbouring areas for a regular fair.

Taking a walk along the bluestone-flagged streets is well worth it. The streets are flanked with a variety of stores selling hand-made cloth, pots, accessories, gifts and drinks.

For those who are seeking excitement, rafting along the Mengdong River is also a good choice.

Narrow and swift, the river twists and turns across the limestone terrain and is strewn with dangerous shoals and rapids. The trip on a rubber dinghy is as breathtaking as that on a roller coaster.

When night falls, campfire parties are held in the villages of Miao people. This is relaxing for tourists who have endured a tiring journey during the day.

Visitors can enjoy a dazzling variety of performances by local villagers, such as the traditional memorial ceremony and drum dance. The climax comes when visitors are invited to play games with the locals.

The popular final stop on a trip here is Fenghuang, a small town 53 kilometres south of Jishou. Nestled in a beautiful valley, the small old town has been barely touched by modern life.

Streets are paved with slate and most dwellings sit on stilts, looking classically elegant with flying eaves and curving roof corners.

The diaojiaolou, the characteristic architecture of the Miao people built on the river bank, have remained intact throughout the passing ages.

( China Daily July 27, 2002 )