Flowers bloom all year round in this sub-tropical seaside city in South China's Guangdong Province and their scent mingles with the aroma of coconuts and coconut palms.

Zhuhai, covering 1,630 square kilometers, has only 750,000 local residents and a floating population of about 1.25 million. In the downtown area, the population density is only 70 people per square kilometer. The whole city is surrounded by mountains to the east and the sea on the west.

Living in such a comparitively small city, people don't feel any of the pressures of modern life in the big metropolises. Anyone feeling unhappy should just take a stroll along the boulevards at dawn or sunset to cheer up.

I was not so busy strolling around the scenic spots because I was in the hands of some local friends who had their own programme organized for me.

In summer, boating on the lakes among the lotus blooms is a heavenly experience. In the suburbs of Zhuhai, there are several large lakes, such as Baiteng Lake, where we sat in a small boat enjoying the breeze, the scent of lotus and a golden sunset.

Camping on Hengqin Island is a feast both for the eyes and the stomach. A culinary feature of the island are the delicious oysters famous for their large size and tender texture.

The island also has three waterfalls tumbling into a natural swimming pool. Nothing can beat a great meal of the island's wonderful oysters followed by a swim in the sun.

Just off Zhuhai, in the South China Sea, are 146 islands giving the town the accolade of "The city with hundreds of islands".

Dong'ao Island is well-known for its diving facilities and good beach, Hebao Island attracts visitors who want to see some wilderness, Guishan Island is good for fishing, Jiuzhou Island is the place to go for hill climbing - in short, most are heavenly playgrounds by the sea.

I especially liked Hebao Island. Compared with the others, it is undeveloped and it has fewer visitors.

Clear streams zig-zag through the forest and there is a small village that almost looks like Xanadu. Women weave fishing nets on the shore and talk shyly with strangers.

Visitors can stay in a row of sheds near the beach. Light a fire on the beach and listen to the singing of the sea for a most romantic night.

Zhuhai is well-known for the excellence of its cuisine. Along with the oysters, there are crabs in Doumen, lotus root in Baiteng Lake and shrimp in Wanshan island and they are recommended as the four most delicious dishes. Tasting them all is a must in the many seafood restaurants that abound in Zhuhai and on the nearby islands.

For more traditional tourism the following is worth a try: in the downtown area, go down Qinglv Lu (Lover's Road), then see the ropeway on Shijingshan Mountain, Jiuzhou City, Yuanming Xinyuan and Buddha Mountain.

If you have more time, visit Shanghai Island, Lingding Island, Dong'ao Island and Hebao Island.

If you just want to have a casual time, there's the Seashore Swimming Beach on Haibin Lu and you can swim as long as you like.

Qinglv Lu is also a good place for fishing. Sitting there and throwing out a line, you can enjoy a peaceful day without being disturbed.

(Shanghai Star May 24, 2003)