| With "Bill Cunningham New York ", Richard Press has created a simple and engaging film about Bill Cunningham, an octogenarian fashion photographer. It is full of interviews with notable people who are keen to hold forth on Mr. Cunningham's contributions to fashion and photography. But the man himself has some unexpected charms. A good-natured aesthete from a Catholic, working-class family, he spent decades as a resident of the Carnegie Hall studios, living in a tiny room crammed with a single bed and filing cabinets stuffed with negatives. In an especially poignant scene, he admits that he has never had a romantic relationship. He still goes to church. |
理查德•普莱斯执导的传记电影《街拍鼻祖比尔》情节简单却引人入胜，主人公比尔•坎宁汉姆是一位有着八十多岁高龄的时装摄影师。影片中，接受采访的各界名人都热切地大谈特谈坎宁汉姆先生对时尚和摄影界的贡献；不过，这位摄影师本人就具有一些让人意想不到的魅力。他出生在一个信奉天主教的工人家庭；作为一位审美家，他性情温和，曾在卡耐基音乐厅楼上的工作室里一住就是数十年，那个狭小的单间公寓里除了一张单人床，满满当当的都是档案柜，里面装满了他拍照的底片。电影里播放了一个特别辛酸的画面，坎宁汉姆先生坦言自己从未开始过一段恋情。一直到现在，他还坚持去教堂做礼拜。 |
| No fan of "cookie cutter" fashion, Mr. Cunningham has been an important chronicler of style for decades. He hovers on street corners awaiting signs of a burgeoning trend, which he documents in his "On the Street" column. "I let the street speak to me," he says. "There are no short cuts." His own sparse wardrobe consists of the same blue jackets worn by Parisian street cleaners. He rides his bike in this humble uniform, careening precariously (and without a helmet) through Manhattan's traffic in search of the perfect shot. |
坎宁汉姆先生对那种俗套的时尚并不感冒。作为数十年来纽约风尚的重要记录者，他在街角逗留守候，捕捉新兴的时尚风潮，并将其刊登在他的摄影专栏“在街头”上。“我的灵感来自街头巷尾，”他说，“别无捷径可循。”他自己的衣服少得可怜，全都是巴黎街头清洁工穿的那种蓝色夹克。穿着这种简朴的制服，他骑着单车颤巍巍地穿梭于曼哈顿街头，连头盔都不戴，一心寻找着最佳拍摄镜头。 |
| He snaps socialites, philanthropists, hipsters, dandies, artists and fashionistas for his "Evening Hours" column. Mr. Press's film includes interviews with some of these colorful characters, such as Shail Upadhya, a retired Nepalese diplomat who wears outrageously patterned suits, and Iris Apfel, a quirkily bespectacled 89-year-old fashion muse. |
他还给社会名流、慈善家、时髦人群、花花公子、艺术家及时尚达人拍照，作品刊登在 “晚宴时分”专栏上。在普莱斯先生的这部电影里，就有对其中一些鲜明人物的采访，包括退休的尼泊尔外交官Shail Upadhya，他常穿着那种夸张的带有图案的套装；还有89岁的时尚女神艾瑞斯•阿普菲尔，她总是戴着那副看上去稀奇古怪的眼镜。 |
| Everyone seems to love Mr. Cunningham, from Brooke Astor (shown at her 100th birthday party) to the staff at events. Even Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of American Vogue, defrosts around him. "We all get dressed for Bill," she says with a smile. |
每个人似乎都喜爱坎宁汉姆先生，无论是已故的布鲁克•艾斯特（从她的100周岁生日宴会上可以看到），还是各种时尚活动的参与人员；甚至连美国《时尚》杂志的主编安娜•温图尔都被他打动，“我们都为比尔着盛装，” 她微笑着说道。 |
| Mr. Cunningham says he wanders around fashion shows hoping to see some "marvelous exotic bird of paradise". His egalitarian spirit persists, even at the Paris shows. "If a normal woman can't wear it, I'm not interested," he says. |
坎宁汉姆先生表示，他出入各种时装秀，希望能看到某种“奇特的极乐鸟”。他始终坚持镜头前人人平等的原则，哪怕是在巴黎时装展上。“一件衣服，如果普通的女性穿不了，我就不会有兴趣，”他说。
（China.org.cn Wendy 译）
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