For any elite mountaineer, reaching the summits of the world's 14 independent mountains above 8,000 meters is a monumental challenge. Then what about doing it without supplementary oxygen?

On Oct. 9, 36-year-old He Jing became the first Chinese climber to summit all 14 peaks over 8,000 meters without supplementary oxygen, completing her journey at the 8,027-meter Mount Shishapangma.

He Jing poses for a photo at the summit of Mount Shishapangma on Oct. 9, 2024. (Handout via Xinhua)

He Jing began her oxygen-free climbing journey in 2017, reaching the summit of Manaslu that year. She followed it with Makalu in 2018, Annapurna in 2019, Dhaulagiri in 2021, Qomolangma, Lhotse, Qogir (K2), and Broad Peak in 2022, then Kanchenjunga, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum I, and Cho Oyu in 2023. Mount Shishapangma marked the final peak in this incredible challenge.

Oxygen-free climbing refers to the entire process of scaling mountains without using auxiliary oxygen, a formidable test of endurance, especially at altitudes above 8,000 meters.

How did He Jing persevere?

Passion

How did she persevere to complete this daunting challenge?

For He Jing, the answer is simple: her love for climbing.

Born in Xi'an, northwest China's Shaanxi Province, an area of flat plains, He Jing hadn't seen a mountain until she was 18. In 2006, she first encountered the Qinling Mountains. "Looking at those towering peaks in the distance, I couldn't help but wonder: What's on the other side? What kind of scenery lies beyond?"

In 2012, she climbed her first snow mountain, Mount Siguniang in Sichuan Province. "As I neared the summit, the sunlight turned the snow into a glowing, golden landscape. At that moment, I felt so small, and the world seemed so vast. It was as if all of life's worries just melted away."

From then on, He Jing climbed nearly every major snow mountain in China. For her, each summit offered a unique view, and every climb was a new emotional experience. "Climbing brings me joy," she said.

After successfully scaling the 7,546-meter Muztagh Ata in Xinjiang, He Jing set her sights on 8,000-meter mountains.

To prepare, she trained by running 10 kilometers five days a week, cycling 40 kilometers to and from work, and regularly doing trail runs and stair climbs.

Breakthroughs

However, the pursuit of her passion wasn't without struggles.

In 2021, He Jing attempted to climb Mt. Qomolangma from the Nepal side, where no Chinese woman had yet summited without auxiliary oxygen. "It wasn't just about fulfilling my own dream. I wanted to do something for my country too," she recalled.

Unfortunately, she missed the weather window for the final summit push and had to turn back, a devastating blow for her.

In Kathmandu, she bought a map and set off on foot toward Mount Qomolangma. Seeing the mountain, her emotions overwhelmed her. "At that moment, I realized this was what I was meant to do. I had to give myself a chance. If you don't even try, that's the real failure."

In 2022, He Jing succeeded, becoming the first Chinese woman to summit Mount Qomolangma without auxiliary oxygen.

Her first 8,000-meter summit came in 2016 when she climbed Cho Oyu. Despite carrying two oxygen bottles, she only used one and summited so quickly that the sky was still dark.

"After Cho Oyu, I felt strong enough to try without oxygen. I wanted to see if I could do it," He Jing explained. In 2017, she successfully summited Manaslu without auxiliary oxygen.

In July 2022, she conquered both K2 and Broad Peak within the same week - both without auxiliary oxygen. In 2023, she summited five 8,000-meter peaks in a single year.

Step by step, she continued to push her limits.

Role Model

Female Chinese climbers are rare in the world of 8,000-meter peaks, and those who do it without auxiliary oxygen are even rarer. Whenever other climbers see a Chinese woman summiting without oxygen, they look at her with genuine admiration. "Sometimes, I feel proud to show the world that Chinese climbers are strong," He Jing said.

However, she doesn't see herself as a trailblazer. "I just followed in the footsteps of other climbers. I believe there will be more excellent Chinese climbers in the future, more people trying new things and pushing boundaries. I also hope my story can inspire other women to pursue their goals," she said.

"It's because China has grown stronger and more prosperous that we have the opportunity to follow our passions," she reflected.

Now that she's completed this monumental challenge, will she continue climbing? Without hesitation, she answered, "Of course."

"There are still many challenges ahead - new routes, off-season climbs," she said.

Right now, He Jing has a particular goal: to climb Mount Qomolangma from the north side of China.

"Next year marks the 50th anniversary of the first Chinese woman to summit Mount Qomolangma. In 1975, China's Panduo became the first woman in the world to summit from the north side. I want to do something to honor her. The history of Chinese mountaineering is a difficult one, and we should never forget those who came before us," He Jing said. 

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