Kumbum Monastery: Past on display in the present

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The Golden Tiled Temple is the most important hall of Kumbum Monastery, located in Qinghai Province. Dating back to the 16th century, Kumbum Monastery is considered to be one of the most important sites in Tibetan Buddhism, second only to the Drepung Monastery in Lhasa. Picture taken Oct. 7, 2013. [Photo: CRIENGLISH.com/William Wang]

Qinghai Province's Kumbum Monastery is a Tibetan Buddhist monastery that dates back to the 16th century. Perched up high in the Lotus Mountain on the outskirts of Xining, Kumbum Monastery (also known as Ta'er Si), has been determinedly encouraging the monastic lifestyle for centuries, through blazing summer heat, icy winters and violent hailstorms.

However, today, monks and their practice have fallen somewhat into the background. The monastery once housed 3600 monks, but today, only about 400 remain. The decline in numbers is more than offset by the swarm of visiting tourists. Following changes brought about in the 1950s, the numbers of monks began to diminish. Rows of monks can still be heard chanting away, while more indecorous tourists will peel back the curtains to steal a glimpse or snap a shot of monks' "covert" practices.

Despite a declining number of monks, the monastery is still one of the most important sites in Tibetan Buddhism, second only to the Drepung Monastery in Lhasa. In fact, Tibetan Buddhism often surpasses the boundaries of Tibet, and many Buddhists consider the provinces of Qinghai and Gansu to be culturally and spiritually Tibetan.

The Golden Tiled Temple is the most important hall of the monastery, featuring an elaborate and huge statue of Tsongkhapa. The entire monastery was built in proximity to where Tsongkhapa was born, as he was the monk and teacher who formed Yellow Hat Buddhism. The exterior of the hall is particularly admired for its two tiers of golden roof.

The monastery is huge, with more than 50 halls, each with its own purpose and Buddhas within. Most visitors require more than two hours to see the highlights.

Entrance Fee: 80 yuan

Getting there: Regular buses to Kumbum Monastery are available from Xining Railway Station, or Xiaoximen and Zhifanglu bus stations.

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