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Gritty backstreets reveal the old Shanghai
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Sharp contrasts

Downtown Shanghai is dotted with alleyways of Western-style garden villas and other turn-of-the-century architecture. Luxurious and built to a high standard, these residences are easier to preserve.

But as all property was divided in the 1950s to provide housing for the poor, today these villas house several families and have been worn down over the decades. The contrast between the building and its residents is characteristic of Shanghai.

Shaanxi Road S. has many side streets in the stretch between Huaihai and Changle roads which offer great examples of garden villas. Large, detached and semi-detached houses show off the Western architectural influence.

A 20-minute walk from Shaanxi Road S. is Nanjing Road W. Opposite gleaming modern malls such as Citic Square, lanes lead to handsome old apartment blocks in classical Western style. Lanes No. 1113 and No. 1025 are good examples.

Be sure to explore behind Nanjing Road W. along streets such as Weihai Road and Shimen No. 1 Road for more 20th-century apartment blocks in different styles.

Further away, Hengshan and Yongjia roads have Spanish-and Mediterranean-style villas. Also built before 1949, these variations on the Western classical style display ever more opulent tastes in the rich of old Shanghai.

More backstreets

Zhoushan Road: At the heart of the Jewish ghetto of the first half of 20th-century Shanghai, the road has been dubbed "Little Vienna" as it is flanked by Viennese-Jewish buildings.

Kunming Road: Home to flower markets set up by local farmers. Also has the Xiahai Temple where people used to come to worship the Goddess of the Sea.

Kele Road: A backstreet behind the Shanghai Zoo, it contains a catholic church designed by Ladiszlo Hudec with an innovative Byzantine roof.

Jinxian Road: A street full of antique shops, little boutiques and old restaurants.

More lilong (old neighborhoods)

Cite Bourgogne, corner of Shaanxi Road S. and Jianguo Road W. (built in 1930)

Garden Villas, 852 Julu Road (built in 1930)

Clements Court, 1363 Fuxing Road M. (built in 1929)

506 Jianguo Road W. (built in 1941)

45 Taiyuan Road (built in 1936, Spanish-style lilong)

(Shanghai Daily November 21, 2008)

 

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