Shenyang: More than a 'place to change trains'
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On a sunny August afternoon in a coffee bar, I met Peter Jackson – young, British, and casually dressed in a plaid shirt with black jeans. As soon as we sit down, he eagerly talks about how satisfying his life is in Shenyang, Liaoning Province, where he teaches at English First.
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Jackson reveals his loyalty and pride for the city when asked about the "Lonely Planet's" unflattering comments regarding Shenyang. According to the popular travel guide, Shenyang is only "a good place to change trains."
"The 'Lonely Planet' is completely wrong. When you stay and explore the city, you will see it's a vibrant place," Jackson retorted. "Instead of simply saying Shenyang's a beautiful city, I would say it's a city full of character and vitality."
Born in Manchester, he spent his childhood in St. Ives, a small seaside town in southwest England. After he graduated from the University of Bristol, he went to Africa to teach English in a small rural village. Filled with a vitality of life abroad and with little desire to return to England, he made South America his next destination and stayed there for some time.
Most people enjoy a trip now and then. Jackson is a proven traveler – able and eager to immerse himself in a different culture, learn from it, and be all the wiser. Africa, South America, and now he's stamped his passport in China.
He chose Shenyang, arrived in 2004, and it's been an excellent match. Besides a few short visits to other parts of China, he has never left the city.
"I was lucky to have chosen Shenyang six years ago," he said with a big smile. "I enjoy working here and feel very comfortable. I like the city and its people. It's almost my second home now."
Yet even a seasoned traveler such as Jackson doesn't adapt immediately to a new environment.
"To be honest," Jackson said after a sip of tea, "the first six months were difficult for me. I even regretted living in China."
A vast industrial city, Shenyang caught him off guard, as he had little experience living in a large, urban atmosphere, and he needed time to adjust. Gradually, he made friends, both Chinese and fellow foreigners, and after six months life became not only much easier, but he found himself beginning to love the city that had once discouraged him.
The past decade has been a period of rapid development in Shenyang, and Jackson witnessed the changes.
"I still remember the time I first came to this city," he said. "I had to take a taxi for 20 to 30 minutes to get to a supermarket where I could buy pasta. But now you can get anything you want near your home, including Western food and drinks. Shenyang has become more international. We now have Starbucks, Carrefour, Tesco and IKEA. Life is easier for foreigners," he added.
Shenyang's rapid growth has benefited not just the economy but the people as well, and Jackson has witnessed the transformation.
"A lot of construction has been done, especially apartment buildings, and the standard of living has been improved for the local people," Jackson said.
True. Shenyang had been known as a heavily polluted city, but many factories have moved out and been replaced by parks.
"The city is becoming greener, with a lot of trees, flowers and grassland around," Jackson added.
Jackson lives in downtown Shenyang, and while some might assume there would be a sense of isolation, on the contrary, he feels he's a member of the community. He often spends time chatting with the locals in nearby restaurants, markets or shops, just as he did in his hometown in England.
"People in northeast China are very friendly and warm-hearted," he said.
Jackson's international experience has made him a keen observer of cultures. "I've noticed the cultural differences," he said. "We British are more independent. Young people are eager to move away from their homes when they are grown up. People here are more family-oriented and have a sense of responsibilities to take care of children and elders. This has probably lost in British culture."
He also pointed out that Chinese senior citizens appear very active, foregoing the sofa-TV combo for trips to the park to exercise, dance and stay fit. They're really enjoying their lives, he said.
The advantages of learning English have created a demand for teachers such as Jackson in China. In Shenyang, English is taught in schools, even in primary schools or kindergartens, and young people now have more chances to use and improve their English.
"Nowadays, there is always someone who can speak basic English, usually in Western food chains like McDonald's and KFC. This was not seen six years ago," Jackson remarked. When asked about his personal life, Jackson became more excited. Though he earns less than in Britain, he lives a better life here. He likes Chinese food, and Mongolian hotpot and Sichuan food are his favorites. There are quite a few Italian, Thai and Indian restaurants where he dines occasionally. In his spare time, he plays soccer with his colleagues and friends, and even tries to learn Mahjong.
Many of his foreign colleagues have come and gone, but he has stayed. He has lots of friends here, and more importantly, he found love here. Jackson married a Chinese woman this year, and the happy couple plan to stay here for a long time, though they may go to England to visit now and then. Jackson enjoys teaching, but he may pursue a management position at the school.
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