In ancient times, Wuyuan was governed by Anhui. Merchants from this area spread throughout China around 500 years ago, forging trade relations with dealers from Qingdao to Qinghai. Such were their numbers and business acumen that in some areas, they practically ran the local economy. Historical records show that of the eight barons Qing Dynasty Emperor Qianlong received during a trip to southern China, four were from Anhui. Anhui merchants went on to dominate trade in China for some 400 years in terms of capital and trade outlets.

Back in their hometowns, these wealthy merchants would often construct majestic homes and elaborate ancestral temples so their families and forefathers could share in their success. Many of these still stand in Wuyuan. Hidden deep in the mountains, the town escaped the wartime devastation that obliterated many other parts of ancient China, and it remains in its original state today.

The Villages

The village of Sixi has been home to the Yu clan for generations. Its distinct Anhui architectures house many fine carvings and other ancient trinkets. The most impressive house in the village is the Jingxu (Respecting Order) Hall, the grand abode of an esteemed and wealthy family. The fourth generation of that family still resides there. The residential buildings in Sixi are under government protection. The occupants are permitted to live there, but, to the disappointment of many collectors, they cannot sell any of the old relics.

The locals carry out their daily activities amid this ancient setting. Some work on a dough, others are busy washing clothes, while the elderly relax with a cigarette and enjoy their favorite TV shows. These days, tourists are no strange sight in Sixi. They can often be seen sharing a meal with the hospitable locals.

Also in Sixi is the "Picture of 100 Longevities," a compound where the Chinese character for longevity is depicted 100 times. Ninety-six of the characters are carved on the ain door -- the other four are hidden, and the challenge for visitors is to locate them. We found three, but could not see the last one. The owner of the house told us that the layout of the residence resembles the Chinese character for longrity/

Likeng Village is a cluster of houses built along a brook, and is said to be the town's most scenically beautiful village. The brook is two to three meters wide, and spanned at various points by makeshift bridges. Dogs are often seen lounging around on the bridges, watching the tourists pass by.

The Rainbow Bridge

In Qinghua is the Rainbow Bridge, often touted as the most beautiful covered bridge in the country. Though it was built 800 years ago, during the Southern Song Dynasty, the bridge stands as sturdy as ever, and is used by the villagers every day.

To get to the bridge, one must pass through the oldest lane in Wuyuan. Built during the Tang Dynasty (618-907), the lane is so narrow that people must turn to the side when they meet on the way through. The walls on both sides are covered with thick, rain-streaked moss, while grass and wildflowers creep out of every nook and cranny.

Measuring 140 meters in length and seven meters in width, the Rainbow Bridge is an architectural masterpiece that includes five corridors and six pavilions. Locals also refer to it as the Corridor and Pavilion Bridge. The bridge remains in perfect condition, surviving even a major flood in 1954. According to my tour guide, the Rainbow Bridge has always managed to stay above the water level thanks to a nearby stone dam which helps flood control, regulates silts, ensures the survival of the river's aquatic life, and protects the bridge from torrential waters.

Similar stone dams were built at other parts of the river in ancient times, but the locals didn't realize how important they were until they destroyed them. About one and a half kilometers downstream there used to be a wooden bridge that was constructed in a unique shape. The bridge was also protected by a stone dam, and the river at that point was flanked by of centuries-old woods. Spurred on by their fancy for the modern and new, the villagers tore down the old bridge and replaced it with one of cement, and demolished the dam. But in 1999, a major flood struck the area, carrying huge deposits of sands downstream, destroying the ancient woods and dramatically narrowing the river.

The Emerald Landscape

Trees line the streets, brooks and alleys in all of Wuyuan's villages -- and according to County Forestry Department, some 81.5 percent of its land is covered in forest. When the village was first built, each member of the traveling Yu Clan was instructed to find a sapling, bring it home, and plant it in the nearby mountain. Some years later, the saplings had grown into a lush forest, which has now spread all over the mountain. some of the villagers began to fell the trees illegally. One of these villagers was the chief's own son. Upon hearing of his son's actions, the village chief trussed him up, dragged him to the ancestral hall and executed him in front of all the villagers. The illegal felling soon stopped, and the trees spread all over the mountainside.

Wuyuan is the land in China where time stands still. Pausing on an ancient bridge as the soft rain bounces off the pittering stream, visitors can sail through the centuries to an age of peaceable village tranquility. And if they strain their ears, they just might hear the ghosts of the triumphant merchants, hurrying back to their hometown on horses bent under the weight of gold.

Tips for Tourists:

There are three tour routes in Wuyuan -- east, north and west. The eastern route often gets the best reviews, as it covers the water scenes of Likeng, Xiaoqi Village, the ancestral temple of the Yu clan and Qingyuan Village.

Taking the northern route, tourists will pass through the historical sites of ancient Huizhou, including Yancun, Sixi, Qinhua Town, Hongguan and Dalikeng. Ancient buildings and bridges can be seen in number on this route.

Lovers of natural beauty should head west for the fascinating landscapes. This route also passes the ancestral tombs of the great Chinese thinker and philosopher Zhu Xi (1130-1200).

Getting there:

By Air: The nearest airport to Wuyuan is 98 kilometers away from the county in Jingdezhenin. The busier airports of Nanchang and Tunxi are other options, but they are further away.

By Land: Wuyuan has two bus stations, with the busier lying in the west of the city. From there, the tourist can easily commute to Jingdezhen, Nanchang, Quzhou and Shangrao. Two buses leave daily for Tunxi, one in the morning, the other at noon. There are also bus links between Wuyuan and other major cities like Suzhou, Shanghai, Hangzhou, Xiaoshan, Shaoxing, Ningbo, Wenzhou, Shenzhen, Guangzhou and Nanchang.

To get around Wuyuan, tourists can avail of its extensive bus and minibus services, or travel with the locals on motorcycles and pedi-cabs.

Local Specialties:

Dishes:

-- Stewed Pouch Red Carp

This is a local specialty, prepared with the freshest-possible ingredients.

-- Steamed Grass Carp Head

This is usually eaten during the Mid Autumn Festival, when the fish's brain has reached full size.

-- Steamed Frog

The species is larger than those usually consumed, and has a better flavor.

-- Steamed Pork with Rice Flour:

Though this dish is eaten all over the country, the Wuyuan version is slightly different as cured pork is the main ingredient.

Fruit:

The delicious Jiangwan snow pear is regarded as the "King of Pears" in southern China, and the fruit was presented to the imperial court as a tribute in feudal China.

Tea:

Wulu Tea: This locally produced beverage has been popular since ancient times -- it was celebrated as one of China's "six wonders" back in the Song Dynasty, and was a tribute to imperial court in the Ming and Qing dynasties. The best brands are Dazhangshan and Tianyou.

Crafts:

The locally made Longwei inkslab, or She inkslab is regarded as one of the best in China.


 
(China Today March 10, 2006)