Praise and condemnation for brands over pollution

0 Comment(s)Print E-mail Shanghai Daily, October 10, 2012
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Some top clothing brands are accused of polluting waters of China. [Sina.com]



Major retail brands including Gap, H&M, Levi's and IKEA have stepped up management of suppliers and are researching ways to cut pollution in supply chains following a report that suppliers were illegally discharging sewage in China.

In an April report, the Green Choice Alliance, a coalition of non-governmental organizations trying to promote a green supply chain, found that the suppliers of nearly 20 Chinese and multinational brands were responsible for pollution.

Yesterday, it issued a follow-up report on the companies' responses.

Clothing giant H&M said it had looked into all the cases raised in the alliance's report and had begun using a pollution database to screen suppliers.

Gap had begun an investigation and was pushing suppliers to provide explanations for environmental non-compliance, while IKEA said it would push any suppliers found at fault to take corrective action and disclose environmental information.

Levi's said it was monitoring its dyeing and finishing sector in a bid to control pollution.

C&A said it had carried out checks and found that two companies named were its suppliers. C&A said it had assurances from these suppliers that their problems had been corrected.

"More than 10 brands had proactively followed up and established a regular screening mechanism, actively identified pollution records in their supply chain and pushed more than 200 textile and leather suppliers to make explanations regarding their violation problems and the follow-up actions they have taken," the report said.

However, it accused some companies of ignoring calls to clean up their act.

The report said 19 companies had remained silent on the issue, including Guess, Calvin Klein, Carrefour, Giordano, Armani, Kappa and China's 361 Degrees, Anta and Youngor Group. The report also said that Marks & Spencer and Disney had responded "but in a perfunctory way."

Marks & Spencer said the issue "may be addressed as required," while Disney said they would look into the matter.

Two factories in Zhejiang Province suspected of being Marks & Spencer suppliers kept discharging toxic gas and wastewater, with a strong smell in rivers drawing a lot of complaints from nearby residents, the report said.

Marks & Spencer Shanghai said last night that it was contacting its headquarter in the UK about the wording of a statement, which would come out soon.

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