Recent years, however, have seen a new influx from north of the border. Today there are about 2,000 Russians working and studying in Harbin, according to the city's consulate.

"There are more jobs here," says Sergey Eremin, a writer who moved to Harbin three years ago, "and there is also Russian history."

Eremin writes about the local heritage for publications based in Russia. He is particularly interested in a famous Whiteguard military hero, General Vladimir Kappel, who fought in Russia's civil war and died in Siberia, but was buried in Harbin.

"Can you imagine the effort in transporting the body?" he asks. His eyes grow wide, his voice hushed.

Soon, his attention is called back to the present. Another wedding guest is waving at him. "Excuse me," he says, whipping out a heart-shaped notepad. "I have to finish my speech."

The city's informal Russia club, which Eremin co-founded two years ago, had organized the wedding banquet.

Harbin is famous for its frigid winters - when temperatures dip below minus 40 C - but July days are hot and sticky.

The wedding party had spent most of the day carousing the sweltering city, making frequent stops to greet family and friends, a time-honored Russian tradition.

"They are probably exhausted by now," says Esmanovich. She pushes an unruly lock of blonde hair behind one ear.

Inside the restaurant, Russian and Chinese families dine on Borcsh soup, spicy sausages, Sauerkraut and beef skewers.

One reason for the restaurant's success is that it isn't a niche ethnic enclave, but a kind of melting pot.

On most days, 70 percent of the clientele is Chinese.