Dunhuang cuisine is of the northwestern ilk synonymous with Xian. Noodles, not rice, are the dominant carbohydrate, while mutton and beef supersede pork and chicken as the principal meats in the region. Flavour tends towards the sour and spicy, with dishes soaked in vinegar and chilli peppers.

As one might expect, Gansu’s principal fast-food export Lanzhou Beef Pulled Noodles can be found everywhere.

Although braised meat features prominently in Dunhuang fare, vegetarians need not fear going hungry thanks to local specialties like Qielaxi. Vegetarian fare can also be shared in Buddhist temples like Leiyin Temple by the dunes. Some famous local dishes include:

Dunhuang Yellow Noodles 黄面

Depictions of people making yellow noodles appear on Mogao murals, proving their long popularity. The heavy dough is pulled into thread-like noodles which are boiled in water and eaten at room temperature. They are typically served with other dishes. This Dunhuang staple supposedly resembles threads of gold – which may be fanciful, but they are undeniably tasty.

Braised Donkey Meat 烤驴肉

Gansu is the gourmet capital of donkey cuisine. One local saying has it like this, ‘In Heaven there is dragon meat, and on Earth there is donkey meat.’ Donkey meat is supposedly sweeter and more tender than horse meat and is low in fat and high in protein. The meat can be sampled as donkey kebabs on the street, or as donkey burgers, but why not go for the full monty of donkey with yellow noodles.

Braised Lamb Cakes 胡羊焖饼

This delicacy made from boiled mutton and thin floury cakes is a local snack in demand since Sui and Tang times.

Dunhuang Dumplings 敦煌水饺

Dumplings, known as shuijiao, are recorded in Dunhuang books dating back to the Wei and Jin dynasties. Popular local fillings include lamb and fennel and mushroom and turnip.

Qielaxi 茄辣西

This classic Dunhuang vegetarian dish is essentially tomatoes, peppers and aubergine poured over a hearty bowl of noodles – be warned, portions are not small!

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