While most wintertime holidaymakers rush south to balmy beaches,
Harbin provides the polar opposite type of vacation
destination.
The capital of Heilongjiang province is located about 400 km
south of Siberia, as the arctic wind blows. Its frigid climate
makes the city a hotspot for travelers during the annual Harbin
International Snow and Ice Festival, but there's much more to this
winter wonderland.
Harbin is home to the world's largest Siberian tiger reserve,
Dongbei Laohu Yuan, and a trip to this park provides a real ride on
the wild side.
Visitors board a small bus ($9) that sputters through the tall,
chain-link gates of the tigers' range. More than 800 of the
endangered cats dwell among the park's 10 districts, and none of
them seem shy. Once inside, the bus starts slaloming among the
tigers, as if they were big, stripy traffic cones with claws and
fangs.
Next, a SUV, encased in black caging, appears and also starts
zipping to and fro among the tigers. The powerful predators know
this is their dinner train and immediately give chase.
After a few minutes, the driver brakes and whips open the door
to loft a live chicken into the air above the vehicle. A pouncing
tiger intercepts the condemned cockerel mid-air - a blur of fur, a
flash of feathers, and it's all over. It chows down on its prize
atop the SUV.
Visitors can also purchase a live sheep for 600 yuan ($83) or
even a cow for 1,500 ($208).
Lee Chak Lam, of Hong Kong, and his travel-mates Lau Chi Shan
and Poon Pin Shan, of Shanghai, pooled their money with three
strangers they met at the park to purchase a sheep.
"It was killed in a second," says a wide-eyed Lee. He believes
it was money well spent.
After touring all of the ranges, visitors disembark from the bus
to walk along a more conventionally zoo-like corridor of cages
warehousing several species of big cats, including white tigers,
lions, ligers, cheetahs and jaguars.
Harbin served as Russia's headquarters during its invasion of
Manchuria, but it remained a small fishing village on the banks of
the Songhua River until it was flooded with Russian refugees during
the Bolshevik Revolution.
The city retains its reputation as "China's Moscow" and
influences can be seen in many of the city's structures. The
cornerstone of the city's architectural offerings is St Sophia
Orthodox Church. Built in 1907, the building today serves as
Harbin's Architecture and Art Center, displaying about 200
historical photographs and a handful of artifacts from olden
times.
Architecture aficionados will enjoy a stroll along Zhongyang
Dajie. This cobblestone street is flanked by rows of historical
structures crowned with scalloped domes, copulas and spires. Today,
they warehouse stores, restaurants and cafes proffering Russian
wares.
(China Daily by Erik Nilsson January 31, 2008)