Soho Shangdu is a beehive of dining establishments, but most are not that special. The latest in the bunch is Karuizawa, a Japanese eatery that serves decent meals but fails to outshine any of the other middle-of-the-line restaurants.

With only six tables, guests receive an infinite amount of attention from the wait staff. The food is certainly fresh but the teppanyaki menu selection – beef (RMB 88), chicken (RMB 38), octopus (RMB 38), and vegetable platter (RMB 38) – failed to impress. So we ordered the chive pie (RMB 32), similar to a congyoubing, and a bowl of shiguobanfan (RMB 45 for the large size) to finish the meal. Lunch set menus are a better deal with choices ranging from RMB 45-65.

We came to realize that Karuizawa is an ideal spot for a light meal to go with the sake but not fit for a ravenous feast.

Karuizawa

Daily 10.30am-10pm.

1/F, Soho Shangdu, 8 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District

5900 1024

(thatsbj.com March 12, 2008)