Lao Beijing (老北京)

Add: 9/F, 592 Nanjing Dong Lu
Tel: 6351-6617

Endure the nightmarishly inadequate elevator at the Li Ning Department Store, because on the ninth floor, Lao Beijing serves up fantastic roast duck, the northern classic.

The restaurant has an eye for detail, authenticity and supreme bird quality and as such is a focused class act in the duck universe, from steamed hearts to grilled wings. Beijing roast duck goes for 98 yuan for a takeaway or 165 yuan for a feast--probably the best in town, certainly the best value. Delicate wrapping, tangy bean sauce and quality cuts make for a lovely traditional experience.

A few minutes after ordering, the bird rolls in on a tray and instantly gets her crinkly warm and succulent skin carved off. Supremely juicy flesh follows. The remainder of the fowl makes its appearance in two customizable vegetable courses with shreds and gizzards. Dinner concludes with a bowl of delightfully thick soup. If Olympic conniptions or respiratory problems are keeping you from the capital, come here.

(cityweekend.com.cn June 24, 2008)