Milan Fashion Week goes golden in reaction to economic uncertainty
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Xinhua, September 28, 2011
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Milan fashion designers largely invested in gold and hues during the week of women's wear previews that ended on Tuesday in a sign that the Italian fashion remains upbeat despite the gloom.
Golden fringe, baubles and sequins figured prominently in styles for next spring and summer, in over 70 catwalk shows with 144 collections, and more than 60 showroom presentations attended by thousands of buyers and journalists from some 50 countries and regions.
Styles were mature and did not forego too sexy looks. Dressed in long skirts, often pleated with demure, women showed off their legs with deep slits or sheer fabrics.
Drop-waisted and no-waist dresses allowed designers to play with embroidery and bending, as well as with bursts of hue in bold tropical prints, animal patterns and floral design.
Iconic stylist Giorgio Armani defined his summer 2012 woman "a pearl of lady", as his collection was created out of fabrics that have the iridescence of a precious pearl and the lightness of a feather.
Golden plating appeared on Roberto Cavalli's skirts, while golden sequins glittered on matching tuxedo jackets, and floral fabrics matched with sequins, lame and lace.
Ferre's shoes were golden, and gold was everywhere in the Moschino collection as well, from the jewelry to the flamenco dress to the heart-shaped prints.
"This season is all about femininity, I think every designer has really gone back to iconic feminine details, of what femininity means to them," Kevin Carrigan, Global Creative Director ck Calvin Klein and Calvin Klein Jeans, told Xinhua.
He added that ck Calvin Klein Spring 2012 collection was based on sensual and seductive women. "I think what is important is the fabrics of feminine, the softness. They float around the body giving women a sense of confidence. This is luxury," he said.
Makeup at Milan Fashion Week was mostly natural with flashes of glitter, and hair, often teased, was pulled back, said hair stylist Beppe D'Elia while preparing models before a catwalk.
"Blond hair is the most wanted this year. I think all this glittering in fashion is a way to react to the economic uncertainty weighting on the mood of Italians," he noted.
In fact, despite the luxury industry is traditionally resilient to economic crises, "the most evident aspect of the current economic situation is the total uncertainty over the future," Italy's Chamber of Fashion said recently in a report on economic trends.
According to the Chamber's forecasts, the Milan Fashion Week generated a turnover of 27 million euro (some 36 million U.S. dollars), while the Italian fashion brands are expected to produce total revenues of almost 63 billion euros (about 85 billion dollars) this year, 4 percent more than last year after Italy's fashion body halved its initial forecast.
However, the optimistic atmosphere felt during the Fashion Week was "our way to respond to the crisis," the Chamber's chairman, Mario Boselli, told a press conference.
He added that the entire city was overwhelmed with an "alive and vibrant" spirit thanks to a number of artistic and cultural initiative involving fashion workers, tourists and curious passersby.
He also told Xinhua that some important characteristics distinguish those cities that aim at being world capitals of fashion: good quality of products, young talents who deserve help in a very competitive market, and an authentic spirit of welcome.
Drawing ideas from other cultures is also a way to make the fashion world more international, said the artistic director of Shanghai-based Misael group, Angelo Cruciani.
Made of designers and artists from all over the world, Misael presented an entirely "made in China" collection during the Milan Fashion Week.
"We are proud of functioning like a bridge between Italy and China," Cruciani told Xinhua, adding that "ancient cultures are the roots of new ideas that can enrich the fashion world."
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