There's Nana biz like showy biz

By Elsbeth van Paridon
0 Comment(s)Print E-mail China.org.cn, April 16, 2013
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I love my (monster) rings, bracelets, watches and necklaces even more than I do my shoes. According to the fictional-sounding "Dictionary of Fashion History", the term "accessory" was first coined in the 19th century, denoting an item worn or carried (the plot thickens; there are indeed two categories) which adds that special something to complete an outfit. Even so, it's easy to become an, ahem, accessory in a fashion crime when decorating yourself. Too many options can sometimes lead to the dreaded Christmas tree effect, from which no-one is automatically exempt. (I once caught a glimpse of myself in a window whilst parading down Beijing's hutongs and realized I looked like a very convincing extra from "Pirates of the Caribbean.") When adding the final spices to your ensemble, forever bear in mind Coco Chanel's immortal advice: "Always take off the last thing you put on." In keeping with last summer's passion for vintage and retro-inspired ornaments, I spoke with 20-something, Shanghai-based jewelry designer Nana of her own brand Antik Nana. The very name seems to clarify the brand's classic aspect.

Majestic handmade rings: The Crown. Copyright@Antik-nana.com

Women are from Mars

As a Central Saint Martin's protégée, Nana initially studied womenswear design at this London fashion beacon of hope, but ended up a vintage-flaunting accessory designer. She has quite the air (mystical not egotistical) to her, for example struggling to explain where exactly she stems from and subsequently referring to "Mars" as her hometown. As a little girl she had already made up her mind to become a designer, yet "was and never has been" influenced or inspired by any great names in the fashion game. When asked, she named the 15th century master clockmaker and mathematician Hanus (I myself am a devout Pietro Campani fan) as her favorite Western designer. Hanus was the man behind the Prague Astronomical Clock who became the topic of many a legend after finishing this masterpiece. I guess for some people, the feel for design is all in the timing or comes entirely from within. Or from Mars.

One flew over the Cuckoo's Nest – in high fashion. Copyright@Antik-nana.com

Memento

Nana has a thing for antique mourning jewelry, the old, spooky, mystic and imperfect; allow me to briefly explain this to the non-churchgoers on here. According to Collectorsweekly.com, mourning (or memento mori in Latin) jewelry has been around since the late 16th century, but was especially en vogue during the Victorian era, that more frigid period in British history boasting "ritual mania" around the late 19th century. Even though we'd usually associate "mourning" with some of the darker colors on the spectrum and an overall bland grey feeling, back in the day it was almost mandatory to pin on certain pieces as a token of grief. Lockets, swivel brooches and necklaces would often contain the deceased's hair strands inside of them or be covered with glass. Despite Nana's fondness for this more macabre -- or "mystic" as she calls it -- version of self-adornment, Nana still cannot fully explain how, or if, they inspire her own designs.

Love for ever-restless Sagittarius. Quite the explanation for a (beautifully crafted) bracelet. Copyright@Antik-nana.com

Mystic river

Nana feels that Mother Nature is her highest muse. She refers to her design style as an emotional one, carrying her own experiences, memories and emotions, as well as those living inside the antique findings she uses to compose her jewelry. Such pieces include a 1939 New York World Fair pendant or a 1970s gold pencil, as well as handmade one-of-a-kind pieces that gather together these little stories from the past and create a whole new one for the future. In her eyes, the downside of China's current market is the ongoing mass-production, a concept she battles with this exact patience to manufacture all of her exclusive pieces from scratch. She may not care too deeply about runways or trends, or the fashion scene in general, but does have an enthusiasm for the Song Dynasty style (960-1279). Many of the daily items used in that era were produced with exquisite craftsmanship, a level of professionalism any designer who makes his artworks by hand would admire. Gold and silver ornaments were quite the rage back then and the brooches, necklaces and hairpins would certainly add some Nana fide old-school finesse to your maxi-dress this summer.

The Color of Envy. Love it. Copyright@Antik-nana.com

Fashionistas United:

As Britain, though opinions are divided to the unfortunate extreme, is currently mourning the death of its first female Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher, take a look back and go for:

"Frugal accessorizing: Less is more."

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