The Art of the wardrobe

By Elsbeth van Paridon
0 Comment(s)Print E-mail China.org.cn, May 18, 2013
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Sometimes Chinese culture just makes sense. For instance, the popular Weiqi game is often used to teach tactics and strategy, which can be applied to all areas from the boardroom to the battlefield. Speaking of warfare and tactics, Sunzi had a point too. His classic book on military strategy and tactics "The Art of War" features numerous quotes, one of my favorites being: "When you surround an army, leave an outlet free. Do not press a desperate foe too hard." Apply this to fashion and you know it's true: Trying too hard shows. Walking the fine line between looking fashionably fabulous and appearing a fashion failure is indeed a struggle in itself. So how have Chinese men gone about this throughout history?

The modern Chinese guy sacheting down the streets. [Photo: Thebestfashionblog.com]

Traditional Chinese men's clothing goes back quite a few years. Granted; we women might nowadays prefer our men to be decked out in true "Great Gatsby" style -- and some men amongst you might concur -- yet men's fashion, a concept which didn't even exist at the time, took quite some time to get to that Leo-level of dressing. From Henry VIII, that original man in tights, to Emperor Qin Shihuang (246-221BC), the founder of the first unified empire in the history of China, original man in robes, they all left their mark -- whether on religion or fashion.

China takes great pride in its 5,000-year-long history, just as Carrie did in her Manolos, so this piece is just meant to fill in the biggest gaps. Chinese pre-modern history primarily refers to nine dynasties, starting from the Qin Dynasty in 221 BC until the Last Emperor (Pu Yi, yes, like the movie) of China's last dynasty, the Qing (1644 to 1911/1912, depending on your historical point of view. Over the course of history, rulers of different descents have waived the scepter in China, adding their own personal touch to their subjects' walk-in closets.

The Hanfu has actually gained a new following in recent years -- as proven by the couple in this picture. [Photo: Commons.wikimedia.org]

In the beginning, there was the Hanfu of the Han Dynasty (206 BC- 220 AC). Voluminous belted robes with kimono-like sleeves covering loose fitting pants were the prêt-a-porter style of the era, with limited editions (for the elite) featuring heavy brocades and embroideries in silver and gold thread. Silk and layers, layers everywhere -- layered sleeves were a Chinese invention, not that of a grungy woodchopper -- remained popular for some dynasties to come. When it came to embroidery, color, or any other type of embellishments, the common rule was: The higher up in the food chain you were, the more elaborate your robe and headgear would have been. It should also be remembered that these "exotic" fabrics and decorations were well-liked among Europe's elite of that period.

Just think of the Mongolian Genghis Khan craze of the Yuan Dynasty (1271 or 1279-1368), with its literally towering headgear, which by the way, was not mandatory attire for all subjects. In stark contrast to Khan's relaxed approach to fashion, the bald Manchu hairdo with a ponytail in the center, which was rocked by the male population during the Qing Dynasty, was obligatory, as was their Changshan style of dress. In fact, many people outside China still consider this style to be China's national costume.

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