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Tailor-made in China

By Elsbeth van Paridon: 0 Comment(s)Print E-mail China.org.cn, July 5, 2013

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With the peacock parade that was Milan Men's Fashion Week now behind us, it's time to take another look at the more male-oriented end of Beijing’s style spectrum. Dolce & Gabbana showed off a sleek look, including pinstripes, perhaps a reference to their recent tax trials and tribulations. Les Hommes and Bottega Veneta's collections were characterized by stern sophistication; Jill Sander showed some monochrome flamboyance. Yet it seems the Italian catwalks took a red leaf out of China’s street style book as a snipping of what was featured consisted of, in the case of Donatella V. and Andrea Incontri, bizarrely paint-like, Wham-video-bright neon lashings, e così via.

Amazed with what he'd just witnessed, and probably also blinded by it, fashion critic Charlie McCann wondered if "some designers seriously think their work will translate onto the high streets." As I tend to keep things closer to Beijing home, I'd have to say: It already has, Mr. McCann. But there is a bright spot on the horizon and thankfully, if, like me, you're more of a suit-guy kinda gal, The Tailor has been the swift Borgia conqueror of men's hearts across the city for some years now.

Adagio

Let’s take it from the top. The above may sound very negative, but that's not my intention. I actually like people who go bold with their wardrobe, as I myself have neither the guts nor the skin tone to flaunt blasting lemon-yellow neon. Of course, it’s just not a good fit for all. The more edgy take on the man's daily get-up may not always include the more Machiavellian option, with some inclining towards their wardrobe basics -- a suit to work (a man in suit equals "good") and a shirt after hours – and others opting to add a little Liberace touch, such as the ascot (scarf, not races) or headgear. In this respect, the beauty of Beijing lies in the abundant presence of The Tailor. There are now many more options than the traditional choices at the Yaxiu or Silk Markets. Several foreigners have now also brought their needlework skills and opened small shops with wide selections of imported fabrics of different feel, patterns and styles.

The suit: from classic to funky, but never frumpy. Copyright@Menswearstyle.co.uk

Bottega

As always, quality is key, especially when it comes to fabric. One example of quality for your money, and entrepreneurship, with a little cloth input (and import) straight from Italy, is that of Senli & Frye (as in Nels Frye of Beijing street style guide Stylites I mentioned several weeks ago). I actually dragged a 1.95m friend there to get a gorgeous dark moss green three-piece made; and he looks flawless. For those in search of perfection, look at how the lapel rolls from the second button to the top one, it's a stone cold indication of sound craftsmanship, if done well. Usually when I think of a good suit, my thoughts turn to Al Pacino in The Godfather II: Now that is a perfect example of a structured three-piece and still appropriate for today’s times, with a few alterations. Prince Charles, who would never describe himself as a fashion icon, and I would agree with this assessment, always wears an impeccably tailored Savile Row ensemble. His style choice of (soft) fabrics or draping in the chest area which makes the garment less structured may seem outdated to many, but after decades of having people take his measurements the man KNOWS what suits him (forgive the pun). A tip from the tailor: Get a suit that fits both your frame and style. Don’t forget the latter or you’ll look frumpy, whatever you do.

Senli&Frye tailor to your taste in Sanlitun. Copyright@Senli

Tying the knot, the essential art of accessorizing. Copyright@Menswearstyle.co.uk

Cravatta

Getting down and polished, we arrive at the accessories. As the saying goes, it's all in the details and real men need to know how to accessorize. Personally I believe that where suits are concerned, fabric is king, but a pocket square, whether one-point folded or staircase folded, or a nice tie – with a double Windsor – can be a nice touch. What is the right tie? That depends on the guy. Some like it hot pink, some like it pinstriped; some like it voluptuous and some like it skinny. For the tall, lanky men out there who prefer a more casual look, get yourself a 1960s (1.5-2.5 inch) skinny tie – and don’t forget, the knot works slightly differently from that of an “off-the-rack” necktie. Another batch of the beloved male species tends to opt for your basic navy blue. My advice to these regazzos would be to just have some color-splashing Wham-like fun with your socks or something. The selection of pocket squares, (bib-like, sorry) ascots and ties on offer inside Senli&Frye, for example, ranges from loud Picasso-painted Versace collection-style to Savile Row simple and demure; with the other option being to have one custom made. The same theory applies to the shirts. Personally I prefer the classic shirt and tie, but I do see the attraction of the whole “contrasting movement” that has been on the up-and-run for the past decade or so. Once again, it all depends on the guy.