It is a clear sign that city slickers are so caught up in the rat race that quality of life actually becomes an issue. Telling someone to take time and smell the roses should be akin to reminding them to breathe; alas, just about everyone and his brother are ruthlessly zeroing in on more noughts in their bank accounts.

The proprietors behind the less than stellar, though eternally popular, Masala Art must have found enough digits, for they have now brought Good Times to Dagu Road as well. Anyone who has walked down the stretch recently are bound to have noticed the place - its bright pastel colored interior and rustic country furniture will have passers-by scratching their heads. The decor is truly bizarre, more akin to a bus station eatery (not one here, thankfully) when compared to the ultra-modern or uber-authentic route most Dagu establishments opt for.

There are some who think the diner should have opted for the latter option, but those brave enough to venture inside will see this is a place that doesn't take itself seriously. The menu, for instance, is printed in the form of a newspaper, interspersed with jokes so terrible John McCain seems funnier by comparison.

Besides the slickly dressed Indian waiter welcoming the few guests opting to try the place, there are few hints as to what the joint actually serves. The menu hardly helps solve the mystery, but that is all part of the fun. The food at Good Times is a bizarre mix and match of quick eats and light meals. Continental (38 yuan/US$5.40) or American (58 yuan) breakfasts to get the weekends going, Indian-style salads with all manner of fun things like the chef's special salad (fruits and bell peppers in black pepper dressing/38 yuan) or tuna chili toast (38 yuan).

The dosas are the main draw, with a variety of fillings and range from 32 yuan to 48 yuan. Easy to eat, the South Indian crepes, with accompanying soup and sauces, make for a thoroughly satisfying lunch.

The murg kathi roll (48 yuan) also kept the good times flowing. This was a Calcutta street staple of spiced chicken in an egg paratha (flatbread); the meat was succulent, the roll held the filling together amply and it took just five minutes to scoff the lot. Result.

Even more bizarrely the kitchen does Western-style dishes, with fish and chips, pastas and mushroom rissole, among others. Surprisingly these turned out all right.

The baked river sole pasta (58 yuan) was prepared with a touch of tamarind and spice, giving a curious tang. It was cooked just right, still pink in the middle, though a little soggy on the outside.

Needless to say the diner also serves curries served with rice, another option for those strapped for time.

Unlike its more authentic cousin, Good Times has yet to find a loyal following, and the diner is mostly empty. While some may argue the place should drop the non-Indian items, the eclectic mix defines the character of the restaurant, and nearby residents and workers looking for a no-frills spot to take on fuel will find happiness here.

Address: 401 Dagu Road

Tel: 5375-1275

(Shanghai Daily April 9, 2008)