Top Cellar, one of Beijing's top wine retailers, combines the enjoyment of wine and food at this simple yet elegant cafe, bakery and wine cellar.

With comfortable couches and magazines on hand, the relaxed mood is just right for enjoying a nice glass of putao jiu. But the real selling point here is the wine, not the food: Guests can sip on a selection of fine wines ranging from RMB 39 to RMB 398 by the glass, but the food lacks flair. Our fusilli salad was bland, consisting predominantly of huge leaves of iceberg lettuce. The entree, roast chicken, was flavorful but we like our bird as full-bodied as our wine.

This poultry was just too boney. I'm not usually one to complain about a two-course set meal that costs only RMB 60 (RMB 80 for three courses), and the English-speaking staff are friendly and efficient, but the food lags behind the quality of the wine by a long way.

Amigo

Daily 8am-10pm, (lunch 11.30am-2.30pm, dinner 6-9.30pm).

Building 10, Central Park, 6 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District

6533 6521

(City Weekend February 26, 2008)