China's magic lingers even 25 years on
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I tried to boot up my camera but it was too slow and only managed an encouraging shout of "jia you," which literally means add gas but figuratively means "go man go." The determined peddler nodded at the odd foreigner and feigned a smile.
The next poignant photo that I didn't snap was of a woman and her young son waiting for a bus on the dusty street. She was bent over slightly, lovingly clutching her son's head with both hands. I thought of all the Chinese mothers who believe they shoulder the burden of Madonna.
Golf in this supposed egalitarian society is an elitist sport, which means every player must have a caddie, most of whom are beautiful young women who know how to line up your putt. Mine was 19-year-old Xiao Zhang who, despite the early hour, was cheerful and encouraging and shouted "Good ball" on every nicely hit shot. We also heard choruses of caddies shout of "kan qiu," the Chinese equivalent of "Fore!" and very amusing and embarrassing when the ball is headed for the pond!
I was playing with Lao Zhang who I'd never met before. He's an unassuming, funny, self-made rich man whose teeth need cleaning. He was also newly addicted to the game and appreciative of pointers.
The course was packed, the game was taking too long and there were places to go and people to see. We skipped the last three holes and head out into the rest of the day.
I was late for lunch with another buddy from the motherland who's been in Asia for 25 years. I hadn't seen him in a year. We reminisced about the early days in the 1980s. We both married Chinese woman and our children are growing up fast.
I asked him how he handles the after-the-novelty-wears-off syndrome. I tell him it's not an invitation to complain; I want to know what he still takes delight in. As we suck back our frothy imported beer, he tells me about the great adventure he had cycling to our luncheon and seeing the construction workers living in tents by the river.
We agreed that every once in a while you have to pinch yourself to realize that China remains a very different, interesting and exotic place.
We are privileged to be the beneficiaries of so much privilege.
The author is the founder of R.D. Communications. billsiggins@ realdogcomm.cn
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