Yan'an Journal-Day 2
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Upriver from Hukou Waterfall, the calm waters of the Yellow River flow smoothly through the distinct huangtu, or "yellow earth," landscape east of Yan'an, Shaanxi Province. [CRI] |
![Upriver from Hukou Waterfall, the calm waters of the Yellow River flow smoothly through the distinct huangtu, or 'yellow earth,' landscape east of Yan'an, Shaanxi Province. [CRI]](http://images.china.cn/attachement/jpg/site1007/20091022/000bcdb95f1d0c4a101122.jpg "Upriver from Hukou Waterfall, the calm waters of the Yellow River flow smoothly through the distinct huangtu, or 'yellow earth,' landscape east of Yan'an, Shaanxi Province. [CRI]")
Although Yan'an is a very famous place in China, it's actually very small by Chinese standards, especially compared to Beijing. With fewer crowds, less traffic and an overall slower pace of life, it's easy to forget at first that the population is actually over 2 million. The top of Pagoda Hill offers a panoramic view of the small city's downtown, where traditional-style buildings are still built into the hillsides, mixed in with several modern-style buildings, new high rises and construction sites.
This place became famous during the Chinese revolution for the spirit of the people here, specifically their willingness to work hard and live plainly. One place in particular, a village outside of Yan'an called Nanniwan, became famous, too, through a revolutionary song that upheld the soldiers working there as models of the communist ideal of productivity and a selfless attitude. Talking to locals, some traces of that attitude seem to remain today. The locals we spoke to often say they are happy in Yan'an, satisfied with life here and that they are proud of the city's history.
But a look around the city and the surrounding countryside shows that life here must still be relatively hard. In the city, dilapidated apartment buildings line the main roads and run-down city buses clog the streets. Leaving the city to drive through the countryside towards Hukou Waterfall reveals miles of scenic farmland devoted to corn, wheat and apples broken up by a few simple villages. Most of the people here are farmers who struggle to earn a living from a few local cash crops.
Tourism to this area, such as to the waterfall or the brand new Chinese Revolution Memorial Hall built to commemorate the local history, bring much needed money into the area. Both sites were crowded with tourists on Wednesday, unlike the smaller, sleepier sites such as Date Garden and Yangjialing.
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