Hidden churches of Beijing's hutong
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The spire of Xizhimen Catholic Church looms over the neighborhood. Photo: Wei Na |
This Christmas, delve deep into the hutong to find some of Beijing's most hidden churches. Some are in use to on Monday, while others have fallen into disrepair, but each is an architectural gem in a city much overtaken by gray concrete.
Xizhimen Catholic Church
Exit Xinjiekou subway station, walk toward Xizhimennei Street, and keep your eyes peeled. "People can only find the church because there's a white sign outside the gate. The yard is really small and inconspicuous," said Chen Shu, a guard from Xinjiekou Neighborhood Committee. The church building and yard are small, sandwiched between the committee on one side and an array of restaurants on the other. At street level it's nearly unnoticeable, but raise your eyes to see the soaring architecture, topped by a cross.
Xizhimen Catholic Church, known as Xitang (West Church) to locals, is one of the six Catholic churches constructed in downtown Beijing. The other five are Wangfujing Church (Dongtang), Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception (Nantang), Xishiku Cathedral (Beitang), St. Michael's Church (Dongjiaominxiang Church) and St. Teresa of Lisieux Church (Nangangzi Church). Established in 1723 by the Italian Lazarist missionary Teodorico Pedrini, Xitang was the first non-Jesuit church in Beijing. After Pedrini's death, the church was run by Carmelites, then Augustinians, until it was destroyed in 1811 during a purge of Catholics and missionaries from the city. Rebuilt in 1867, it was again destroyed on June 15, 1900, during the Boxer Rebel-lion. Twenty years later, it was pieced back together a third time at the original location. Shi Hongxi, Secretary General of the Beijing Catholic Patriotic Association said, "In 1958, Xitang was given up as a church and used as a button-making factory, then as an electric fan facto
ry and later as a warehouse for Tongrentang pharmacy; during that time the three-story bell tower was torn down. Xitang officially reopened in 1994, and the bell tower was repaired in 2007."
The church's green Corinthian pillars give it an air of magnificence in spite of the lack of other elaborate decorations. Kneeler cushions line each bench, and light tiles lead to the alter.
Christmas mass:
7 pm and 11 pm on December 24.
7 am and 8 am on December 25.
Address: No. 130 Xizhimennei Street, Xicheng District
北京市西城区西直门内大街130号
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