China's melodious past
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A traditional lane in Shajiabang. |
Melodies and tea
Shajiabang is littered with tea houses offering locally picked teas and snacks. No matter where you are, a tea house is only a five-minute walk away. The Chunlai Teahouse near Hengjing Street also provides a chance to listen to traditional folk music in the Wu dialect, of which Shanghainese belongs to.
The songs are duets between a man and a woman, each singing and playing traditional Chinese musical instruments - the erxian and the pipa respectively. As the two singers exchange melodies back and forth, they relate stories of courtship that are often stymied by the fact the man does not have enough money to pay the dowry his love requires.
Floating through the reeds
One of the most unique attractions at Shajiabang is a boat ride through the local marsh. A 15 to 20-minute ride for up to six people costs 80 yuan ($11.80), and can be arranged at a number of docks throughout the scenic area. As you coast through the waters surrounded by greenery you will be greeted by song once more as the gondoliers sing to pass the time. The forests of reeds are immense, and it's easy to see how A'Qingsao was able to help the Red Army remain undetected there.
While on the marsh, you may catch a glimpse of local fishermen using a traditional technique to catch fish - trained cormorants. With a boat full of these birds, the fishermen let the cormorants dive and catch fish, which are then returned to their masters… at least most of the time. This reporter was exhilarated to witness a struggle between a particularly hungry bird and its owner over a tasty catch.
Getting there
If you are going on Saturday, you can take a tourist bus from Shanghai Stadium for 120 yuan which includes the price of entry to the park (normally 60 yuan). The bus departs at 9 am and returns at 4: 30 pm. For more information call 6426 5555.
Getting to Shajiabang every other day of the week will require going to Changshu first. Buses leave regularly for 39 yuan (one way) from the Shanghai South Long Distance Bus Station near Shanghai Stadium at 666 Shilong Road. Once you get to Changshu, you can grab a taxi to Shajiabang.
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