Those pickles have been sitting out since when? Zhaofu Jie Grocery Store in Gulou opened in 1956, and - as far as they're concerned - there's no reason to change anything. They still have barrels full of pickles, soy sauce, vinegar, sesame paste and other staples in bulk, and they even have their original water-color-style posters advertising cigarettes and alcohol. Those posters, like the pickles, used to be a common feature of grocery stores in the 1950s, but you hardly ever see them anymore. Owner Li Ruisheng said he wouldn't part with either of them, even though a German tourist came in and tried to buy two of the posters for 2,000 yuan apiece. "It's a witness to history," said Li.

We visited at dusk, and our first impression was of the decades beating down upon us - shelves full of salt, oil and seasonings pressed against us in their plastic basins and porcelain jars - then we realized the 20-square-meter shop was just really, really crowded.

There we met one middle-aged woman, who admitted that she was the wife of Li Ruisheng, but she refused to tell us her name. She was pretty reticent to talk to us, and we were surprised to find that in an independently operated store, but as we saw her regular customers come in to buy things, she opened up and was downright friendly with them. Later she said, "I don't want to be impolite, but you see I'm quite busy and we have to accept visitors from different districts of the city, as well as several photographers and reporters every week."

Later Li Ruisheng himself came back. The 52-year-old man told us that the store used to be around 100 square meters and had over 20 salespeople. Li has worked there since 1987, but he said that in recent years, due to competition from surrounding supermarkets, it has not been as popular as it used to be, so they gave up space until it was only 20 square meters, and Li and his wife are the only salespeople.

Four years ago, Li signed an agreement to run the store together with the State-run Beijing Aoshikai Asset Management Company. Due to considerations of assets and costs, Li didn't change his operating style or make any upgrades to the old store. The management company takes care of the distribution of commodities like it does to other Aoshikai chain stores. Li said, "My store is in the hutong, just next to the homes of common citizens, so it's more convenient. You can choose to buy vinegar or soy sauce in bulk. Moreover, I know almost everyone in the hutong, so people with inability to walk can just call me and I then can offer home delivery."

Zhang, in his 70s, came into the store to buy a bottle of alcohol, telling Lifestyle, "I live near the store and have bought things here for decades, because it's quite convenient." Just like in the old days.

Opening hours: 8 am to 8 pm

Address: No. 47 Zhaofu Jie, near Zhangwang Hutong, Dongcheng district 东城区赵府街47号, 近张旺胡同

Tel: 6404-4327

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