What to eat: Shanghai-style cold noodle

By Shen Sijia
0 CommentsPrint E-mail Global Times, September 14, 2010
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Dexing Noodle Restaurant

Recommended: kaofu and mengrou toppings

Add: 529 Fujian Road Central, close to Beijing Road East.

Tel: 6360 2866

Fat of the land

Inside a bowl of Korean cold noodles is a whole compendium of flavors: sweet, sour, spicy, and salty - all mingling together in crushed-ice broth.

The best known Korean cold noodle restaurant in Shanghai is probably Pang Ayi (Fat Auntie), named after its owner.

Although not from Korean ethnic minority herself, "fat auntie" learnt the cooking techniques from Korea's large émigré community in north-eastern China. In the noodle shop, the gaoji lengmian (premium cold noodle) at 15 yuan ($2.20) is a must. They use buckwheat noodle, spam, sliced beef, egg, pear, and cucumber as toppings.

The only complaint is that while the toppings are plentiful, the noodle portions themselves tend to be a little on the mean side. But Pang Ayi must be given credit for adapting some of its traditional northern recipes to better suit the local palate; the soup, for example, is slightly lighter and sweeter.

By comparison, the Benjia Korean Cuisine on Wuzhong Road, is at the higher end of the cold noodle market. And unlike Pang Ayi, this kitchen uses crushed ice in its soup. For the soup broth, there is a choice of chicken or spicy beef flavors.

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