I have a date with Lijiang
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CRI, November 4, 2010
Lijiang -- A Fairyland in Yunnan Provice
Splendid landscapes, the exotic ways of the Naxi ethnic group and the precious Dongba Culture make up the unique city of Lijiang. Each year it attracts a great number of visitors from home and abroad. To find a fairyland far from the bustling metropolises, please do not hesitate to come to Lijiang.
In many travelers' minds, Lijiang refers to the Old Town which is an essential part of the whole Lijiang City. In the 800 years from the Southern Song Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty, the local governors and their subjects inhabited this city which has an advantageous geographical location not requiring a city wall. They created the famous Dongba Culture and the Naxi Ancient Music, and left a large group of unique Naxi buildings in this area. Standing at Square Street, in the center of the Old Town, you will be deeply impressed by the charming town and the locals' quiet life, much like the meandering streams that wind through the town. Please slow down your steps here, and immerse yourself in a fairyland on earth.
There are a number of places of historical interest and natural scenic spots here, awaiting your exploration. Mu's Residence (Mufu), once the palace of the supreme ruler Chieftain Mu of Lijiang, was reconstructed by the World Bank in 1996 in the northwest part of Old Town. It is the best place for visitors to enjoy the splendid architectural heritage of ancient Lijiang. Jade Spring Park (Heilongtan Park) is a wonderful place about one kilometer (about 0.62 miles) away from Square Street, combining natural beauty and historical sites harmoniously. The best place to see the full extent of the Old Town is Lion Mountain Park which is just 250 meters (about 0.16 mile) from Square Street. With an altitude of 2,500 meters (8202 feet), the park has a tranquil natural environment. It also has a typical Naxi building-Wan Gu Lou (Aeon Tower) on the mountaintop and some fine Lijiang Murals.
Eight kilometers (5 miles) to the north of the Old Town, you can see the architectural complex of Residential Houses of Baisha Town. In the Song and Yuan dynasties, Baisha was the political, economic and cultural center of Lijiang. It is the embryonic form of the subsequent Lijiang Old Town.The Old Town of Shuhe is another ancient town in Lijiang, which is just 4 kilometers (2.5 miles) to the northwest of the Old Town. The largest stone arch bridge in Lijiang was built here: Green Dragon Bridge. Both of these towns can be reached from the Old Town by foot or bicycle.
Outside of Lijiang City, there are a great number of splendid natural attractions hosting more and more adventurers from home and abroad. The most famous one is Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, which is about 15 kilometers (about 9.3 miles) to the north of Lijiang City. More than 5500 meters (about 18,045 feet) above sea level, this mountain is noted for its precipitous slope and charming beauty. White Water River is a river formed by runoff from the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. At the east foot of the mountain exits an attraction, Dry Sea (Ganhai) . It had been a highland glacial lake before the 1940s and was formed after the water had dried up. And the Spruce Plateau (Yunshan Plateau) located at the foot of the mountain as well, is a large meadow hiding behind a primeval forest. At the southern foot of the mountain, you can find the famous Yufeng Temple , which is surrounded by the flourishing forest and a never-dried river. All this makes it a really good place to visit. As famous as the mountain, Lugu Lake, which is about 184 kilometers (about 114 miles) to the northeast of Lijiang City, is a must for visitors. The Mosuo People there who still maintain a matriarchal clan society today will introduce you to another one o f the Chinese minority cultures.
Finally, Lijiang also prepares a series of splendid natural scenic spots for brave travelers. Three Parallel Rivers in Yunnan Protected Areas, Stone Drum and the First Bend of the Yangtze River and the Tiger Leaping Gorge are surely to astonish everyone who enjoys this majestic view.
Approach Lijiang
Nestled in a high mountain valley, Lijiang's charming Old Town has long been a center of Naxi culture and in recent years has become a major tourist attraction. Declared a UN World Heritage site after a 1996 earthquake and developed in the years since with tourism in mind, Lijiang, once a remote backpacker getaway, now attracts some three million tourists a year.
Of course, the tourism boom has changed the city and it's now common to find traditional wooden Naxi houses converted into shops run by Han Chinese who cater to the needs of tour groups. This has changed Lijiang's character, replacing much of its authentic (if occasionally dilapidated) charm with the convenience and relative luxury that the tourism industry requires, but it is still possible to find areas of the Old Town free of the theme-park feel that dominates elsewhere.
The New City, whose flimsy modern buildings fared worse in the earthquake than the old city's Naxi wood and stone houses, is not worth too much time, though hotels tend to be cheaper than in the Old City. Beyond Lijiang, the beautiful countryside beckons. Not far from the city you'll find the famous Tiger Leaping Gorge, monasteries, Naxi villages and Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Lijiang is also an excellent spot for a few days of relaxation before or after treks in Tibet or eastern Yunnan.
Lijiang's Old Town
Lijiang's Old Town, also called Dayan, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that survived a 1996 earthquake that leveled most of the modern buildings in town. In the wake of the disaster, Dayan gained fame as a quaint and authentic outpost of Yunnan culture and architecture and went from backpacker secret to tour package feature.
Since then, it has struggled to retain its millennium-old identity in the face of mounting crowds, hype and development. Many local Naxi have left their distinctive homes as hotels, restaurants, night clubs and boutiques have moved in, changing the fundamental character of this lovely mountain town while maintaining much of its outward charm. Nonetheless, wandering through the narrow cobbled lanes and along quick-moving channels of alpine stream water rushing through town is exhilarating, and the upside of the tourist boom is that there are a range of options when it comes to dining, entertainment and bedding down.
Long an important Naxi political center, the town reflects the architecture and culture of various regional peoples, including Tibetans and Bai, along with the Naxi. The town's original name reflects its perceived similarity to a jade ink stamp, a feeling you might be able to pick up in Dayan's whimsically angled rooflines and brushstroke-like streets and canals.
How to get there
Lijiang City is divided into two parts: the New Town and the Old Town. The Old Town is a large area, so you won't miss it. It is at the foot of Yulong Xue Shan.
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