Lingshui: A Charming Study of History

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An impressive number of Lingshui trees have been growing in the village for over a thousand years. 



Walking along its cobblestone walkways, noting piles of firewood stacked against a backdrop of rickety traditional architecture, one may get the feeling of being on a movie set. In fact this is likely close to the truth as quite a few movies and TV shows have shot scenes in Lingshui. According to local resident Tan, Lingshui has even welcomed the superstar likes of Jackie Chan and Zhang Ziyi.

Alongside of film-makers, photographers, sketch artists and painters are also drawn to Lingshui's views and historic details. Relics are scattered throughout. Keep your eyes peeled for wells, a grinding stone and an antique rice-cleaning machine that stand as monuments to the years. Amazingly, entire antique edifices still manage to stand, such as the hall which used to house meetings for teams of farmhands. The building is now vacant, and visitors are welcome to browse, crossing their fingers so that the rafters above remain in place.

But many of Lingshui's structures have not proven so hardy, or lucky. Quite a few have been damaged or destroyed by the Cultural Revolution, the attacks of Japan, and the passage of time. Today, many of them are finally being restored in anticipation of a growing tourist industry. If you have any particular interest in seeing examples of dilapidation in pre-renovation Lingshui, then the sooner you can make the 75 kilometer trip out, the better.

But even in the renovated homes, the feeling is still rustic. Bed mattresses are set up on kangs, where fires lit underneath keep bodies warm through the frosty winter nights. The feeling is definitely that of staying in a country home as opposed to a hotel. Prices humbly start at 20 yuan per night, and home-cooked meals are also available. Eggs produced in the backyard and local produce complement regional tea brewed with water from the adjacent river.

Yes, everyone will enjoy strolling through Lingshui's web of passages, but the chance to chat and dine with the very people who've lived there for generations is an opportunity that shouldn't be missed.

Getting there: From Pingguoyuan subway station, take bus #929 to Junxiang.

If the #929 bus will not go all the way to Junxiang, then take bus #892 to Lingshui. Then hire a driver to complete the last 5 km leg of the trip. (15 yuan).

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