Xishiku Church: church of the saviour saved for us today
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E-mail CRI, October 12, 2012
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Architecturally, east meets west outside of the Church of the Saviour. |
Tucked into a quiet corner near Beihai Park is one of Beijing's most beautiful churches, arguably the best example of gothic architecture in Beijing. The gothic-styled Church of the Saviour is commonly referred to by locals as Xishiku Church, reflecting its neighborhood and constituents who frequent the services.
Two cultures clasp hands at the entrance to the church, as European architecture and traditional Chinese pavilions stand side by side. Chinese stone lions perch on the guiding fences, and sculpted turtles with stone tablets balanced on their backs mark the way to the church's front doors.
The intricate grey marble facade of the church is magnificent, each window and cross drawing the eye upwards toward the heavens.
The interior is an even more inspiring space, where verticality becomes even more of an emphasis. Red and green pillars lead the eye upwards and onwards towards the equilateral arch at the end of the main hall, while light filters in through century-old stained glass windows.
All of the workers at the church are volunteers, many of them elderly. Mu Huiling, who is one of them, has a particular reverence for the historical building. "It provides a quiet and peaceful sanctuary for those who are upset or who long for a peaceful mind… I usually advise people to find a favorite corner and sit for a while. It is great that such a quiet place exists in the busy metropolis of Beijing."
The church was originally established by Jesuits in 1703, but its current incarnation was created in 1887, after it had to be relocated from where Zhongnanhai Park was to be built.
The fact that the church is still standing today is a wonder in itself, "miraculously" having survived the Boxer Rebellion of 1900. A nationalist movement was fighting foreign imperialism and religion and more than 10,000 people perished in the conflict. Over 3000 Chinese who had converted to Christianity squeezed into the church to take refuge, 850 orphans among them. The missionary bishop (who was also the architect of the church) barely managed to secure enough rations for refugees to live off of.
The historical times of siege are hard to imagine in the peaceful environment which prevails today, where whispers tend to be the norm. Yes, it is peaceful but according to Mu, on special occasions such as Christmas sermons, there can be thousands of people in attendance. Foreigners are always welcome to visit the church, and many do. But those new to the church should be advised that at this time sermons are all delivered in Chinese.
Getting to the Church of the Saviour (Xishiku Tianzhutang (西什库天主堂):
No. 33, Xishiku Main Street
From Xisi subway station, walk south to Xianmen Dajie and turn east. Continue on for 10 minutes to Xishiku Main Street (the 2nd left) and walk a few minutes north to the church.
Hours: 8am to 11am, 2pm to 5pm each day.
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