Paulaner Brauhaus: A place between light and dark
- By Rob Hemsley
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E-mail CRI, March 14, 2013
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Light and dark beer, brewed on-site, in traditional glass tankards. [Photo: Marie Bollrich] |
If you're wondering what constitutes a truly international beer, you don't have to go any further than the Paulaner Brauhaus located in Beijing's Kempinski Hotel. The ingredients are sourced from around the globe: hops from Germany, barley from Australia, yeast from France – all mixed with Chinese water.
The man in charge of the month-long brewing process, Austrian Brewmaster Wolfgang Sesser, is as widely travelled as his beloved beer, having previously worked in Korea, Russia, and across China. Over a massive tankard of cold dark liquid heaven from the taps, surrounded by copper tanks in the warm and cosy heart of the restaurant, I had a chance to chat with the man in person.
To my surprise, I learnt (with a somewhat heavy heart, I should add) that Brewmaster is not a job one can do simply by possessing a knowledge of what tastes good. Rather, it involves three years of initial study, including hands-on experience at a brewery; three years of professional employment; and, finally, a further year of training – to achieve what is the highest rank in brewing.
Though the Paulaner Brauhaus has been popular since its inception way back in 1992, its current success is unrivalled in Beijing. The restaurant sells on average 1,000 litres of beer a day during the summer, which – and I'm merely guessing here – is enough to make a whale tipsy.
There are eight 2,000 litre copper tanks in the restaurant itself, as well as four smaller tanks that feed directly into the pumps. This capacity allows Sesser to produce light and dark beer, both of which have a strength of roughly 5%, all year round.
On top of these old favourites, however, seasonal beers regularly pop up on the menu. Last summer, for example, Sesser brewed a highly popular low alcohol (and thus low calorie) beer which will be making a repeat appearance when the sun emerges over Beijing again this year.
In true German style, the Paulaner Brauhaus also plays host to its very own incarnation of Oktoberfest every year. This 17-day celebration of home-brewed beer, hearty food, and lively entertainment has become a tradition in Beijing. Sesser brews a staggering 8,000 litres to help the festivities go with a bang. In the interest of giving visitors (or, to be more precise, drinkers) an authentic Oktoberfest experience, the restaurant even ships showgirls and a band over from the Bavarian capital.
Despite the pressure of having to concoct the perfect brew, Sesser can relax in the knowledge that every night – without fail – there isn't a drop of beer to be found in any of the tankards. I personally polished off two litres of dark beer on my visit – and it was only the need to be up early the next day that prevented me from enjoying a third.
If you want to try Wolfgang Sesser's home-brewed beer, as well as a selection of hearty and delicious German dishes, be sure to make your way to the Paulaner Brauhaus at: Kempinski Hotel Beijing Lufthansa Centre, 50 Liangmaqiao Road (Tel: 6465 3388 ext. 4212)
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