Ancient city walls of Pingyao

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Getting to every gate, every tower (and sometimes it feels, every brick) of a good few city walls, I've been rewarded by getting face-to-face with ancient history and vibrant neighborhoods of today.

But, as most of it is done on foot, it can be a bit of a slog.

So, after traipsing Pingyao ancient city walls, I decided it was time to treating myself to a blissful two and a half hours of indulgence at the hotel spa - including 90 minutes a bathtub of roses.

Temples, too

When Pingyao's beguiling brickwork won UNESCO World Heritage Site status in 1997, a pair of temples outside of the walls - Shuanglin, dating back 1,300 years, and 1,000-year-old Zhenguo, - were included in the bid.

The World Relics Committee of UNESCO described the city as "an outstanding example of a Han Chinese city of the Ming and Qing dynasties that has retained all its features to an exceptional degree."

The UNESCO committee added that this "provides a remarkably complete picture of cultural, social, economic, and religious development during one of the most seminal periods of Chinese history."

How to get there:

The fact that Pingyao has been around for thousands of years is no reason to wait before you visit. Fly or get the train to Taiyuan, the provincial capital of Shanxi. From there you need to get a train or coach just under two hours to Pingyao. Alternately, organise transport with your hotel.

Where to stay:

There are many choices of charming courtyard hotels inside the ancient city walls of Pingyao. I picked the adorable Jing's Residence on East Street, which was part of a wealthy Qing Dynasty silk merchant's mansion. The 260-year-old site has been restored to perfection, welcoming guests from all over the world since 2009. Its 19 beautiful rooms and suites are located around four main courtyards. The main building houses an excellent restaurant and an upstairs bar and library lounge for the convenience of guests - ideal for enjoying afternoon tea. The staff are helpful and efficient, speak good English, have great knowledge of their city and passion for sharing it. www.jingsresidence.com

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