The Puppet Manchurian Palace Museum: A tragic life on display
- By William Wang
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E-mail CRI, September 4, 2013
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Regal buildings in an elaborate setting belie the sad lives that were lived there, at The Puppet Manchurian Palace Museum. [Photo: China.org.cn: Sun Hui] |
Changchun's place in Chinese history is cemented into place by Emperor Puyi's residence there from 1934 to 1941. Today his palace has been transformed into a museum which details a veritably atypical lifetime where he was a prisoner in his own home and denied the powers he felt were his birthright.
The palace itself was created by the Japanese for Puyi to live in as the ruler of the Manchuko state. But of course, it was the Japanese who were in full control. In fact, Puyi had already abdicated his emperorship in 1911 (when China became a republic), but it was deemed convenient for the Japanese to "promote" him to be the emperor of Manchuko, since northeastern China was at that time under Japanese control.
Although the palace pales in comparison to Puyi's former residence of the Forbidden City, the Japanese could certainly have given him worse. The 43,000-square-meter property includes a swimming pool, tennis court, golf course and horse track where Puyi practiced riding.
The palace layout echoes that of the Forbidden City, but architecturally the buildings are unapologetically European. Inside each hall, information plaques inform visitors about how each room was used and about any historical event that took place there. Restorations of the rooms and their decor feel as if Puyi might come back before nightfall. Even his newspaper lies half-read next to his toilet.
Wax figures representing Puyi, officials, or concubines occasionally make an appearance, startling visitors. They pose stiffly, making high decisions, or perhaps reclining languidly with an opium pipe in hand.
The Jixi Building and Tongde Hall are of particular interest, as visitors can gain a lot of insight into the frustrations and limited freedoms of those living in such a regal environment. Although Puyi had already abdicated his emperorship in 1911, he was later "promoted" to emperor of Manchuko by the Japanese.
Despite his personal convictions, for years he acted as a rubber stamp for Japan's war efforts, unsurprisingly earning the hatred of his countrymen. But Puyi's life was hardly one to be envied. He resigned himself politically to act against his conscience. He lived in constant fear of being poisoned by anything not prepared by his personal chef. One of his concubines was depressed and addicted to opium. He was forbidden to practice the religion of his choice. He was even forced to sign a document that if a son was born to him, that son would be taken from him and sent to Japan to be raised.
Two halls have been converted into a more typical museum, which describes the entirety of Puyi's life in fuller detail, including his imprisonment and rehabilitation by the Chinese government, and eventual death as a civilian.
The narrative as told by the museum's restored rooms may be a depressing one, but it is not one of sympathy either. The fact that Puyi was a part of the Japanese machinery is always at the surface. The museum is filled with rhetoric that makes little effort to hide its bias.
And Puyi was not the only one who sided with the Japanese. One hall lines up over 50 portraits of Japanese collaborators, so that their "ugly looks" can be assessed by visitors. "Why can some people bravely resist and finally become national heroes, when the nation and state face invasion and crisis?" asks one placard, before continuing, "In contrast, other people betray themselves to their enemies. Being servile they become guilty men condemned by history."
In addition, displays of period items are on display such as clothing, jewelry, and Puyi's 1932 Cadillac. The well-organized museum is ranked with the highest tourist site rating of AAAAA. English explanations accompany most displays with varying levels of grammatical correctness.
Museum of the Imperial Palace of the Manchu State, Changchun, Jilin Province
Entrance fee: 40 yuan
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