Enigma of Shangri-La is shrouded in magnificent scenery
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E-mail Shanghai Daily, June 4, 2015
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Tourists play with the wind-bells hung by people making wishes at Lijiang Old Town. |
After Shangri-La, more surprises awaited us as we travelled north to an outpost called Feilaisi, about 10 kilometers outside the town of Deqin. Along the way, we visited a few monasteries and a boarding house for Tibetan monks, who were kind enough to share with us their breakfast of yak butter tea and barley bread. The scenery along the way is simply breathtaking, with the altitude reaching 4,292 meters.
Our sole reason for taking the five-hour road trip from Shangri-La to Feilaisi was to catch the fabled Meili Snow Mountain at first light the next morning. There are several hotels lining the road and facing the mountain, and most of them have rooftop viewing decks. After the morning display of nature's best — which is subject to weather's whims — we headed off to Deqin to savor a hotpot of fresh Yangtze river fish. Beyond Deqin is the border with Tibet and the road to its capital Lhasa. But our journey ended here, and it was back to Lijiang for us.
So where is Shangri-la? Like the paradise in the novel, it remains a tantalizing mystery. Perhaps its spirit was at the remote school we visited along the way, where we encountered smiling children living in the most austere conditions. Perhaps it was at Napahai Lake, where we met a beautiful young Tibetan girl who posed for our cameras, carrying her little lamb in her arms. Or maybe it was at the monk's quarters, where we barged in as strangers but were greeted with warm hospitality. Wherever it is, Shangri-la beckons you to undertake your own personal journey of discovery.
Several domestic airlines like China Eastern and Juneyao fly directly from Shanghai to Lijiang. You can also fly from Shanghai to Kunming, the capital of Yunnan, via Air China, China Southern, Kunming Air and other carriers and then proceed on a connecting flight.
At Lijiang, you will be spoiled for choice, ranging from luxury accommodation to budget hotels. By far the most impressive would be Banyan Tree Lijiang, located at the edge of Shuhe, away from the busier Dayan old town. You will be impressed with the views. Rooms are luxurious, and you don't even need to leave your bed to see the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, the highest mountain in Yunnan. The hotel also offers the best spa treatments in town.
Spring and summer months are the best time to visit. It tends to rain more during the months of July and August. The most beautiful time in Lijiang is between April and May. The winter months of November to February are considered low season, with snow and sub-zero temperatures in places like Shangri-La and Feilaisi. Some hotels are closed for the winter.
If you want to catch the Tibetan festivals, plan your visit during the three-day Horse Race Festival that begins on June 20 at the foot of Wufeng Mountain. At the festival called Dengbashi on August 28, the gods of good fortune are worshipped. The festival of Gedon from October 2-19 features the famous mask dance. Spring festival, the Chinese lunar new year, is also popular tourism time.
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